(no subject)

[hsifeng]

OK, it’s been more than a week since I posted the teaser about my new costume project.

First, a shot illustrating how frustrated I got with taking pictures of the bodice.

Seriously, I am not even going to share the images I took while trying to get a picture of my awesome side-back seams because a) apparently I am not a contortionist and b) there is not an Android app that takes photos of your back for you without you looking like an idiot in the process. *eye roll*

You’ll just have to take my word for how awesome they are at this point.

And now, for the scribbling of a madwoman


 

What the hell am I doing here you might ask? Well, *clearly* it’s me determining the exact ratio of pancakes to syrup for my Sunday breakfast.

OK. It’s not that. It’s my calculations for the width of the bands and guard for my dress’s skirt, I was attempting to determine how far up my leg the last guard would be. The final measurements are the ones I circled. Also, the guards aren't really black it turns out, they are dark blue.

I decided to go with stacked pleats again (because I love them on my current dress) so I also had to figure out the length needed in order to pull this off.

See Mom, my college degree WAS useful for something. 

While this example is for stacked pleats, it can be used for any pleat style. The math goes something like this:

Make up a sample pleat that is about the size you believe you want on your final dress.


 

Mark the pleat with pins at the point where the fabric first ‘enters’ the pleat and the point where it ‘leaves’ the pleat (and another pin in the middle of it all because you don’t need it coming apart while you measure)…

Check the length of the overall pleat…


 

Finished Length Of The Bodice Waist is divide by the Length Of The Sample Pleat. If you get anything other than an even number either a) mess about with the sample pleat until you get a length that WILL divide evenly, b) figure out how much you’ll have to ‘fudge’ with one or more pleats at the back of the dress in order to get the pleats to work out or c) go fix your first drink of the evening and come back and deal with the problem as above in “a” or “b” when you are done.

Once you have gotten your sample pleat squared away, remove the ‘linchpin’ from the middle of your pleat and unfold it to measure the pleat fabric’s overall length.

Wow…that is a lot of fabric!


Now, take that measurement and multiply it by the number of pleats you are going to need for your whole skirt. Take a moment to realize that this means you are going to be handsewing at least two lengths of guards down for this same distance. Where was that drink you made before? Use it now.

After the drink, realize that this HUGE number of inches is really only about 3.5 yards. Furthermore, realize that this means you are using a much more accurate amount of fabric in your skirts that has been used on many prior occasions (cartridge pleats, I am looking at YOU).

Have a celebratory drink and then get back to work!

After a couple of days of cutting and sewing in every spare minute, I have the skirt attached to the bodice and am thrilled with the overall results. I would love to share photos of the work up until this point, but I didn’t get any yet. Instead, I have the following images to share with you:

Gratuitous shot of my workstation.

Why yes, that is a TV you see there. However, I am still watching movies on my laptop instead of on that ancient beast because I can’t stream Netflix instant watch to the TV…and X-Files soothes the savage sewing beast.

Gratuitous tool shot.

This is probably my favorite sewing tool with the exception of my rotary cutter. If you don’t have one, get one. MILES better than the old ‘chalk in a plastic holder’ I used to have.

UP NEXT: Sleeves!

EDIT (because I am an idiot and jillwheezul is nice enough not to point it out). *grin*

When attaching pleated skirts to bodices, I have always first mounted said skirt to a waistband. This time I forsook that step and simply stitched the skirt directly to the bodice, about ¼” above the bottom edge/waistline. Why you ask? Because I have done it the other way previously due to the possible need to modify the bodice at a later date due to weight gain/loss. Having the skirt on a waistband meant I could separate the skirt, mess with the bodice and slap the skirt back on with relative ease.

Due to the construction style of this bodice, that isn’t really possible: So sewing the skirt directly to the bodice just made more sense.

Why waste the extra material for a waistband?

Why sew the skirt on TWO items instead of one?

First I assembled the skirt and guards so that it was one big, long, striped rectangle. Then I turned the ‘top’ edge of the skirt (where I would be attaching it) over by about 3”`¹ and steamed that fold. Then I laid out the skirt on my tabletop, measured out 10” sections of the top edge, and marked the 10” increments with pins.  Each of these was pleated into a 2” final  Stacked Pleat – and no, they weren’t all consistent and some of them have less fabric in the backside of the pleats than others, but no one is going to see that bit and the outside looks lovely so who cares? *grin*

Once the pleats were in and well pinned in place, I stuck the whole thing through my sewing machine and made a line of stay-stitching about an inch down from the top turned edge.²  This held my pleats in place while I repined the final skirt product to my bodice and got down to handsewing all that fabric to my bodice. ³

 

 

¹ When I cut the skirt out I had added a few inches to the width - 2" in this case, although more ended up being turned over in the end - to ensure that I would be able to have this turned-under bit, I find that the resulting pleats stand out better when they are backed by a bit of fabric. ^A   I determined this amount by the incredibly scientific process of holding the blue trimmed skirt fabric up to the spot I was sure my bodice waist landed on my body and then rolling the edge under until the bottom edge was as far off the floor as I thought it should be pre-hemming.

^A In cases where the fabric of the skirt is lighter weight, I have been known to add a heavier weight backing strip of 5”-6” to help fill out the top of the pleats more (and yes, I can put a footnote in my footnote if I wanna! *sticks out tongue at academic standards*).

² All the while I was stitching, I was praying to the God Of No Broken Needles In The Eye. My poor machine, she’s 20+ years old and only gets serviced when I remember it and she STILL sews like a champ. Kenmore, you are my hero!

³ I think I would like to have leather quilting thimbles permanently attached to my sewing fingers; I always forget how much they hurt when I haven’t been stitching in awhile and then suddenly think I can put a needle through 11 layers of wool, two layers of linen and two layers of canvas…over…and over…and over again. *owch*

Comments

[femkederoas.livejournal.com]

I am SO glad to know that I'm not the only one who alternates between the higher maths and drinking when calculating both pleats and guards.

Told you we were separated at birth. :-D

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

Told you we were separated at birth. :-D

XD

Drinking is very important for higher brain function, in that it turns it off so that all the cursing and screaming is quieted enough for me to do the Mathz.

*grin*

[femkederoas.livejournal.com]

At some point I should scan in and share the sketchbook containing the stripe layout and yardage calculations for John' waffenrok-in-progress.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

OMG yes! If it is anything like the patterning that mmcnealy had to do on her striped Waffenrock project I am sure you are in piecework HELL right now!

[femkederoas.livejournal.com]

I am not fit to be mentioned in the same sentence. :-) And I'm playing in Trigger, for now. Linen and/or wool when I have some of the notions worked out.

But yes. Faux puff-and-slash AND stripe-ys.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

I am not fit to be mentioned in the same sentence.

You and me both honey, mmcnealy, kimikosews and jillwheezul are in a category all their own. I am just glad they afford me space at their knees so I can cling like a barnacle and filter out bits of knowledge from their efforts.

[femkederoas.livejournal.com]

Would that make "lamprey" a better analogy? :-D

(I'm good at that, too. Though I'm so plowed under between work and the girls right now, I'm getting squat done.)

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

Why are you asking me this question? You are the animal professional! *grin*

PS: We are totally separated at birth. I think they are hiding the documentation in the same place Obama had his birth certificate stashed.

[jillwheezul.livejournal.com]

I love stacked pleats too, but found them easiest to mount if I handsewed the top edges together first to keep the pleats from sliding about.

I also love this chalk holder pen :)

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

Damnitalltohellandtarnation! You just made me realize I didn't talk about the process where I attached these to the bodice.

"Bad...Naughty...EVIL Zoot!"

Herm. Well. I am going to have to edit this entry a bit.

*preps drink*

[sstormwatch.livejournal.com]

That is a huge pleat. The biggest I've made before was a rolled pleat for the client's Henrician base skirt, at a 7:1 ratio. It was also really, really heavy and I was glad it wasn't me wearing it. Made a beautiful looking hang to the skirt tho, not that anyone else would notice.

And yes, I love that thin chalk holder, with all its many colors. I still prefer a regular chalk-pencil marker that I sharpen a little more for staying power, but this is my trusty backup.

I really need to start my project. I can't wait to see how this develops.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

Wanna know a secret? Having seen how stacked pleats fall in skirts and bases, I am tempted to think that the stylized pleats seen in Albrecht Durer’s princess images *may* be these type of pleats - or something like them - rather than the ‘organ pipe pleats’ that many folks use (and which can’t be documented any further back than the Victorian era according to folks I know who have looked into them).

Secret number two? I may not permanently attach my German styles sleeves to this dress and leave it without trim on the bodice until after MAAS: That way I can add a set of yellow or red woolen sleeves and a black English over-partlet and use it as my dress for that event too.

*evil grin*

[sstormwatch.livejournal.com]

The rolled pleat I used also provided the same look in how it fell. I've a view from underneath, that is nearly identical to a Spanish statue, with its figure 8 style pleats (like a ruff, only from below not to the side). I'm sure there was more than one way to make them, we are just relearning the tricks they knew then.

My only concern after creating it, was how much fabric it used up. Considering the small amounts of fabric they were allowed then (except of course among the royalty and very wealthy who were allowed or didn't have to deal with sumptuary laws) such a pleat, either rolled or stacked, simply uses up too much fabric.

The other thing against either stacked or rolled pleats, was that one extant 'rock/schaube which in the documents jillwheezul sent us, showing the garment from the inside, clearly showed that its roll-looking pleats were actually based with tiny pleats, and it rolls from the circular cut of the garment. Again, similar to the ruff in its small pleats. In this case, simpler may simply have been better. It was why my last gown went in this manner, and while not nearly as dramatic a roll to the skirt, it did do alright, and didn't weigh a lot.

Ad I like your idea of making this dual duty. Very cool.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

So, do you think the secret was circular skirt to find fullness at the hem? For which social classes?

Also, what is the documentation on the yardages for working class garments (I know I have this buried somewhere, but though you might have it more readily to hand). My skirts ended up being about 3.5 yards of fabric, but would have taken two lengths of about 30" wide each to accomplish both skirt and trimming (bodice and sleeves are pretty negligible yardage-wise).

[sstormwatch.livejournal.com]

I think it depends on the location, station, and style of garment, but circular patterns are seen in the Spanish pattern books, and some of the extant garments of the time. I can't speak for the lower classes, since we don't have pattern books or extant garments from them other than the occasional well worn breeches and the like. But we do know that fabric then was expensive, and we know from the tailor's records that certain folks were only given a certain amount of fabric for their livery, and the lower orders got less fabric than the better sorts. I know more of the Henrician era/location, as both the big Henry book, and the book from the Tudor Tailor ladies discusses this. But those are mostly about men's clothes.

Circles or half-circles, with additional gores really do use less fabric, if they are pieced in the period manner. I learned this when I made my husband's skirted U-jacket, and ended up using a lot less fabric then expected. The key is to piece on the straight of grain when possible, in rows, then cut the circle or half-circle. Like in this cutting diagram of Mary of Hapsburg's wedding gown.
http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/hungarian_cutting.jpg

As to the site I think you are talking about, it is here:
How Much is Enough: Yardages Used in Late 16th century Women's Clothing.
http://www.nachtanz.org/SReed/fabuse.html
She discusses what is known about nobles clothing yardages, but you will get the gist that we modern re-enactors tend to go overboard on the amount of fabric we put into outfits. We should be using even less for those below gentry, tho how much less is up to some guess work.

I'm trying to base the amount in my skirts on what is in the Tudor Tailor book for their fitted gown, but I do plan on adding a little extra in the back for pleats. I'm also a bit bigger than their pattern size 12, so I need a little extra back there. Oh, and it has to fit over a small farthingale.

And I'm finally washing up the burgundy fabrics for the kirtle. Im debating if I should wash the wool as well, and will try a test sample to see what happens.

[kimikosews.livejournal.com]

Before I pass out from lack of propr sleep, the images I've got of English gentry & common women are here: http://kimikosews.livejournal.com/56537.html

Looking at the ruff monkeys, you can see a few pleats in the back, and smooth across the front.

Looking at Fete, detail 5, you can see there is some little amount of pleats or gathers on the woman in red who has her back to us.

I think I'll be doing fewer pleats on mine than originally envisioned.

And feel free to do what you want with this outfit, as it is German not English. I've no idea what those crazy Germans do with all that fabric they liberate.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

I think it depends on the location, station, and style of garment, but circular patterns are seen in the Spanish pattern books, and some of the extant garments of the time. I can't speak for the lower classes, since we don't have pattern books or extant garments from them other than the occasional well worn breeches and the like. But we do know that fabric then was expensive, and we know from the tailor's records that certain folks were only given a certain amount of fabric for their livery, and the lower orders got less fabric than the better sorts. I know more of the Henrician era/location, as both the big Henry book, and the book from the Tudor Tailor ladies discusses this. But those are mostly about men's clothes.

“Circles or half-circles, with additional gores really do use less fabric, if they are pieced in the period manner.”

I really wanna do this on an upcoming project. Then again, we all know it takes me a dogs-age to get around to making a new dress. *eye roll*

“Like in this cutting diagram of Mary of Hapsburg's wedding gown.”

Also seen in a number of other extant pieces; the red silk Burgundian man’s coat comes immediately to mind as does the gold Schaube from the Abegg book.

“I'm trying to base the amount in my skirts on what is in the Tudor Tailor book for their fitted gown, but I do plan on adding a little extra in the back for pleats.”

If you don’t mind me asking, how many ‘period’ yards are there going to be in your new dress?


“Before I pass out from lack of propr sleep, the images I've got of English gentry & common women are here…”

Thank you for the period reference images honey! I see what you are talking about, there is a lot less fabric in those skirts than you’d think. My inspiration image may not be much help here, since the skirts are kirtled, but I will have to go back and review other German images to see what I can see. Even with a smaller amount of fabric in my skirt tube, I am sure I am using more than they used in the period.

“I've no idea what those crazy Germans do with all that fabric they liberate.”

*tut tut* None of that here! I don’t go in for the whole, ‘they dressed in the rich fabrics of their plunder’ thing. What a waste of a saleable commodity! I am sure there was some of this going on, but I hear this term bantered around WAY too much by some German reenactors as an excuse for wearing velvet at the cooking fire.

[kimikosews.livejournal.com]

I would happily wear wool at the cooking fire. I'd be afraid to go up in a torch otherwise (remembering when one of the stage guys at Kearney Park lit himself, and then his shirt caught on fire.) I do apologize for the comment about rich plunder, but I also admit, I've no idea what influences how the German women made their garments. Were there sumptuary laws? Codes?

I haven't figured out how much period fabric, but am aiming for around 4 at most, less if I can pattern it right (aiming for circular or gored). I'll post that when I get to figuring out the math, and look up Alcega on the pattern design. The fabric is far wider than in the period for a silk, about right for a broadcloth, but it is cotton masquerading as damask linen - not sure how wide the linens got, will have to look that one up.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

“I would happily wear wool at the cooking fire. I'd be afraid to go up in a torch otherwise (remembering when one of the stage guys at Kearney Park lit himself, and then his shirt caught on fire.)”

*nods in total agreement* I don’t know what women are thinking. Working clothes are made from working fabrics For A Reason. *shakes head*


“I do apologize for the comment about rich plunder, but I also admit, I've no idea what influences how the German women made their garments. Were there sumptuary laws? Codes?”

Oh no worries; this is really just a pet peeve and there was no way of you knowing it. Yes, there were German Sumptuary Laws (passed by a number of levels of the government, from the Emperor down to local laws and customs, IIRC). Of course, there would be no need for law if there weren’t those breaking them, as the saying goes. Soldiers, being highly mobile and more than a little volatile, probably got away with breaking more laws than most. On the other hand, I have seen some confusing choices when it comes to fabric amounts and use for certain character stations. After all, even in the Fahnlein there is a pecking order – if you are dressed better than me but I have more power than you, the please thank your tailor for me when I confiscate your clothing.

;)

“I haven't figured out how much period fabric, but am aiming for around 4 at most, less if I can pattern it right (aiming for circular or gored). I'll post that when I get to figuring out the math, and look up Alcega on the pattern design. The fabric is far wider than in the period for a silk, about right for a broadcloth, but it is cotton masquerading as damask linen - not sure how wide the linens got, will have to look that one up.”

I look forward to it!

My dress currently is made up of about 3.5 yards of base fabric, 2 yards of trim, 2 yards of skirt/sleeve interlining and a ½ yard of canvas interlining on the bodice. Figure the modern widths to be about 50”, so probably double those for the period fabric amounts.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

OK, I wanted to post in and let you know I saw your messages and I love you and I will be reading and responding when I have enough time to digest this information and not just fly through it nodding and muttering to myself.

;)

[docryder.livejournal.com]

Great expression in that first photo. :-)

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

I think I was in the middle of cursing at my camera/phone; after trying without success to get images of the back of my bodice for 15 minutes (and only succeeding in getting images of my ear, the wall, the window, ½ my body, etc.) I was losing my cool. I actually got photos with normal expressions on my face too, but I decided this picture was more telling of the state my brain was in while working on this project. *chuckle*

[alysten.livejournal.com]

I have to get me one of those chalk tools. That looks too cool for words. I am very envious of your workstation. My craftroom was turned into a man cave. I am not 100% sure I came out ahead in that deal.

And I believe every historical costuming instruction set should have the added steps of making a drink and where to insert consuming of said drink. Best set of instructions/how to I've read in a while.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

I need to make an icon like this one that implies, "Will Sew For Wine".

*chuckle*

PS: Thank you for the compliment!

PPS: You DO want one of those chalk tools, they are more wonderful that I can describe with these simple words.

[sstormwatch.livejournal.com]

She only showed a small portion of her work room. She has a big room to work in, which I am envious of.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

I do love the project room, although I do share with a metal working hubby, three cats and a dog. ;)

[vanagnessayem.livejournal.com]

It is midnight and I am at the skirt/waistband math thing...
Just have to hand finish some small stuff on the bodice, like hooks and eyes...
Skirt is hemmed, and the guards are on.
I have to go to work in the morning! Ack.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

OMG; I say your post this morning. YOU ARE DONE ALREADY!?!?

*bows to your superior sewing skills*

I am mostly done, with a crap ton of finishing. And then I want to make a wool cap like yours. For this weekend. Because I am NUTS.

*grin*

[brickhousewench.livejournal.com]

RE: Footnote #3, my fingers salute you!

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

As long as it isn't you middle finger doing the saluting! ;)

[brickhousewench.livejournal.com]

LOLz, never fear!

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

(http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/hsifeng/?action=view&current=InternetHighFive.jpg)