I think it depends on the location, station, and style of garment, but circular patterns are seen in the Spanish pattern books, and some of the extant garments of the time. I can't speak for the lower classes, since we don't have pattern books or extant garments from them other than the occasional well worn breeches and the like. But we do know that fabric then was expensive, and we know from the tailor's records that certain folks were only given a certain amount of fabric for their livery, and the lower orders got less fabric than the better sorts. I know more of the Henrician era/location, as both the big Henry book, and the book from the Tudor Tailor ladies discusses this. But those are mostly about men's clothes.
Circles or half-circles, with additional gores really do use less fabric, if they are pieced in the period manner. I learned this when I made my husband's skirted U-jacket, and ended up using a lot less fabric then expected. The key is to piece on the straight of grain when possible, in rows, then cut the circle or half-circle. Like in this cutting diagram of Mary of Hapsburg's wedding gown. http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/hungarian_cutting.jpg
As to the site I think you are talking about, it is here: How Much is Enough: Yardages Used in Late 16th century Women's Clothing. http://www.nachtanz.org/SReed/fabuse.html She discusses what is known about nobles clothing yardages, but you will get the gist that we modern re-enactors tend to go overboard on the amount of fabric we put into outfits. We should be using even less for those below gentry, tho how much less is up to some guess work.
I'm trying to base the amount in my skirts on what is in the Tudor Tailor book for their fitted gown, but I do plan on adding a little extra in the back for pleats. I'm also a bit bigger than their pattern size 12, so I need a little extra back there. Oh, and it has to fit over a small farthingale.
And I'm finally washing up the burgundy fabrics for the kirtle. Im debating if I should wash the wool as well, and will try a test sample to see what happens.
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regna
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Date: 2011-06-09 12:39 am (UTC)Circles or half-circles, with additional gores really do use less fabric, if they are pieced in the period manner. I learned this when I made my husband's skirted U-jacket, and ended up using a lot less fabric then expected. The key is to piece on the straight of grain when possible, in rows, then cut the circle or half-circle. Like in this cutting diagram of Mary of Hapsburg's wedding gown.
http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/hungarian_cutting.jpg
As to the site I think you are talking about, it is here:
How Much is Enough: Yardages Used in Late 16th century Women's Clothing.
http://www.nachtanz.org/SReed/fabuse.html
She discusses what is known about nobles clothing yardages, but you will get the gist that we modern re-enactors tend to go overboard on the amount of fabric we put into outfits. We should be using even less for those below gentry, tho how much less is up to some guess work.
I'm trying to base the amount in my skirts on what is in the Tudor Tailor book for their fitted gown, but I do plan on adding a little extra in the back for pleats. I'm also a bit bigger than their pattern size 12, so I need a little extra back there. Oh, and it has to fit over a small farthingale.
And I'm finally washing up the burgundy fabrics for the kirtle. Im debating if I should wash the wool as well, and will try a test sample to see what happens.