Take a Deep Breath...

From: Textile Conservation and Research. A Documentation of the Textile Department on the 20th Anniversary of the Abegg Foundation.
Bern, Schriften der Abbeg-stiftung, 1988

( Here are some images and text that I just wanted to save for later reference.... )

From: Textile Conservation and Research. A Documentation of the Textile Department on the 20th Anniversary of the Abegg Foundation.
Bern, Schriften der Abbeg-stiftung, 1988

While I haven't nutted out enough to try making my own net cawls (yet), I thought this might come in handy for someone, and perhaps for me later!

( No, it's not for catching fish.... )

From: Textile Conservation and Research. A Documentation of the Textile Department on the 20th Anniversary of the Abegg Foundation.
Bern, Schriften der Abbeg-stiftung, 1988

Onward and upward....

This entry takes us into the later period and the images and descriptions of the outer and under doublets of Count Friedrich von Stubenberg. Count Friedrich died in 1574 and these are the clothing items he was buried in . The Abegg Foundation completed extensive reconstruction on these articles. For the sake of those who are most interested in images of the restored garments, I will include only those in this post. If anyone *really* wants to see what they looked like in their 'before' condition, just let me know and I will add those images as well.

From: Textile Conservation and Research. A Documentation of the Textile Department on the 20th Anniversary of the Abegg Foundation.
Bern, Schriften der Abbeg-stiftung, 1988

As mentioned in my entry on men's knitted hats from this same book, this entry deals with a set of clothing from the Berne Historical Museum. The clothing was originally attributed to Andreas Wild von Wynigen, who fought in at least one battle in 1499 (Dornach). However, the clothing has since been reexamined and it has been determined that this is more likely a reproduction by other members of the von Wyningen family - specifically a grandson who was a tailor and who may have made the set as a 'historical costume' for himself.

There were so many photos to take of the Wams (doublet) and Hosen (pants) that I split it into two entries in an attempt to not overload the usefulness of the photos and to make future use of these sources easier.

This post is image HEAVY...consider yourself forewarned.

( Read more... )

On to the Wams...

Textile Conservation and Research. A Documentation of the Textile Department on the 20th Anniversary of the Abegg Foundation.
Bern, Schriften der Abbeg-stiftung, 1988

Awhile back I managed to ILL this book (I love my librarians!) - I took a whole lot of photos with the intention of posting them online for discussion and future reading. Then our laptop hard drive died. I lost a boatload of research and articles I have written over the years. But thankfully, all the photos I took of the Abbeg book were still on the digital camera!

So, now that I have learned my lesson and *will* be webbing my stuff from now on (*beating head against desk*) I am going to start putting up sections from the book for folks to consider and discuss.

I will be breaking this down into 'single subjects so that the number of pictures per entry don't get totally out of hand.

( Women's bonnet from Gelterkinden... )

 

Awhile back I posted this information...

( This Inforamtion right here... )
The following three title came in:

 "The History of Needlework Tools and Accessories" by Sylvia Groves

 "An Illustrated History of Needlework Tools" Gay Ann Rogers

"Old Needlework Boxes and Tools: Their Story and How to Collect Them" Mary Andere

So far, all these sources agree that the lucet was "still around" and in general use in the 18th C - but not one of them has indicated when it *started* being used or if it was around in the 16th C.

The closest I have gotten to a clue thus far is the following from Sylvia Groves book,

"Apart from the garniture of needlework there were numerous other purposes for which cords were needed in both large and small households. In medieval times horn-books, pen-cases, pincushions, pomanders and many objects of everyday use were hung from the waist suspended by cords. Hooks and eyes and metal fasteners, of a type that can be bought easily and cheaply today, did not become generally available until the late Georgian era, so hat both under and outer garments had to be laced up or gathered in with cords, or 'chains' as they were then termed. The closure of bags and purses presented another and more difficult problem; money was carried in a silk purse contained in an outer bag o leather drawn or tied round with strings or laces.

"All these cords had, of course, to be made by hand, usually on a simple but very essential, implement know as a lucet. This is a flat, lyre-shaped tool, from three to six inches in length, with two horns tapering or curving outwards at the ends...."

I just got the Abegg-Stiftung 'Textile Conservation' book in today and thought I would scan the index for the word 'lucet'. No luck, the index is only of pieces and images, not terms.

So I will try to skim the contents while I have it to see if any extant pieces with lucet cords are mentioned....

BTW - I also edited this entry to include my thoughts on fingerloop braiding.

jillwheezul, you can start the "I told you so" entry now....*grin* 

edited 7/17/08 @ 8:54 AM - 

Since I am returning the above listed ILL titles to the library today anyway, I am going to send in requests for these items to see if they have more details on the lucet/medieval/Early Modern connection:

Goodnow, Kendra and Hilliger, Albert C. "Lucette Cord Made Easy" 1978

Proctor, Molly "Needlework Tools and Accessories: A Collectors Guide" London: BT Batsford, Ltd. 1990

Wilkinson, Dorothy S "Needlework Tools: The Lucet" Needle Arts, June 1997, pp. 16-17

I desided to search the OED (since I found I have access to it via the SF Public Library):

lucet pron: ((l(j)ust) )

timeline

						a1650		1858