hsifeng: (www.crackafuckingbook.com)

[livejournal.com profile] jillwheezul (my personal garb goddess as many of you are aware), dug up this original text information in regards to soldierly sumptuary law information from Max. In addition, she also dug up the original 'their lives are crappy, let them have fun quote'. DHF’s Christopher Triechel provided translation services, so what you are getting below is a copy from the GRC list with a combo of both [livejournal.com profile] jillwheezul and Chris' work.

Thanks folks!

Now mind you, sumptuary laws were often hard to enforce even in the cities! However, this sorta makes it more apparent that this wasn't a permitted practice, just an example of soliders stretching their limits as they could, when they could. That doesn't seem so strange at all....

>> Original Text from [livejournal.com profile] jillwheezul with Chris' translations inserted in line <<

Hi again,

I've checked out Erika Thiel's Geschichte des Kostüms, a nice general costume history. Being that it is German, it does have some good particular German costume reference.

Erika actually quotes the bandied about sumptuary law (which was quoted elsewhere as 1503), but doesn't cite a reference - only that it was said: "Laßt sie doh gehen, bei ihrem unseligen und Kümmerliche Leben muß man ihnen ein Spaß gönnen". (Let them go at their unholy and pitiful life. One has to allow them some fun - C.T.). That pretty much jives with the translation in the Osprey book.

Another rather exciting piece is the what appears to be a full quotation of the Emperor's 1536 Sumptuary ordinance. I'm going to quote the part here on the Kriegsleuten. Anyone who'd like, please feel free to jump in and translate because I am deep in study of the 1548 wedding costume of the Duke of Saxony. It's in the period language. [So far I believe I see that Captains, fendrich and musterherr can dress like an honorable burger.]

Von Krigsleuten.
About the Soldiers

Item die kriegssleut so eyner eyn Ritter oder Edelman were sollen vnd moegen sich als oben von Rittern vn Edelleuten vermelt tragen.

In that the soldiers, one being a knight the other a nobleman and if they want shall clothe themselves as knights or nobility.

Were er aber von geringerm standt dann vom Adel herkommen vn eyn hauptmanschaft fenderich musterherr er dergleichen hohe ampt get woellen wir jm zulassen sich zutrage wi eyn ehrlicher Burger von geschlecten in stetten wie oben gesetzt ist.

But is he of common origin and then by a noble given a captaincy or fahndrich or muster master or of the same high office As such we wish to give him the right to wear that which a Burger of like standing as above mentioned may wear.

Were er aber eyn gemeyner knecht so er sich in seins herrn gebieten vnd oberkeyten diser ordnung vnd seinem standt gemess halten.

But he who is a common servant and who offers himself up to his master and his superiors must remain in his order and same standing

Aber eyn kriegesman so eyn dienst hett oder hauptman vnd im Zugk were vnd des eyn passbort oder urkund würd anzeygen der mag sich nach gestalt der leuff vnd wie jm gelegen kleyden vnd tragen.

But a soldier who has such duty or is captain in the trains and has to show a passport or document, he may as befits him and how he wishes carry and clothe himself.



FULL POSTING OF THE ABOVE CITED SUMPTUARY LAWS:  )

EDIT: Additional sumptuary information from [livejournal.com profile] jillwheezul (love her!) posted on www.landsknecht.org on 11/18/10 -

http://daten.digitale-sammlungen.de/0000/bsb00002041/images/index.html?fip=193.174.98.30&id=00002041&seite=1

Hmm, this might be the source - there is a section on the laws set down at Worms in it. Now, just to find it. Oh, and it also has a section enacted in Augsburg that deals with soldiers, including how many priests per soldier were needed. It starts at section XX (page 51 on the DGF viewer).

From [livejournal.com profile] mmcnealy on the same site on 11/19/10 -

http://daten.digitale-sammlungen.de/~db/0002/bsb00024809/images/index.html?seite=30&fip=193.174.98.30

Sumptuary is the English term, the period German term is "Kleidung Ordung" or "Kleyder Ordung"
Here's a link to Magdeburg's clothing ordinances from 1544 "Des Radts der Alten Stadt Magdeburgk Ordnung vbern Ehebruch, Gelüb... which might help with some vocabulary.

From Gottfried (also on landsknect.org) on 1/28/11 -

Out of
Landsknechte by Reinhard Bauman; München 1994 ISBN 3406379710

Sich so zu kleiden, wie es belibte, bzw. auch aus der Not des Feldlebens eine Tugend, nämlich die der >zerhackten< oder >zerhauenen< Tracht zu machen, war durchgesetztes Gewohnheitsrecht der Knechte, gegen das die Kriegsherren schon deshalb nichts unternehmen konnten, weil eine Vereinheitlichung ja nicht von den Knechten getragen werden konnte, und die ganze Landsknechtzeit für eine Uniformierung die Geldmittel fehlten. Individualität in der Bekleidung gehört jedoch vor allem zum Selbstverständnis des freien Kriegsmanns. Der Augsburger Reichstag von 1530 hat mit seiner großen Kleiderordnung (67) deshalb nicht die Landsknechtmode genehmigt, sondern nachträglich und für die Zukunft etwas legitimiert, das durch Verbote nicht mehr zu verhindern war, in einer Ständegesellschaft aber nicht ohne Kodifizierung bleiben konnte: >... eyn kriegesmann / so eyn dienst hett oder hauptman und im Zugk were / ... der mag sich nach gestalt der leuff und wie im gelegen / kleyden und Tragen.< (68)

My Translation:

To dress one self as one pleases or to make out of necessity a virtue of the field life, namely the >slashed< or >hacked< clothing, was enforced Custom by the Knecht, that the Leaders/Warlords could do nothing against because a conformity of dress could not be worn by the Knecht nor could the financing be secured throughout the entire Landsknecht time period. Individuality in dress on the other hand was part of the self-understanding of the free Soldier.
Because of this the Augsburger Reichstag of 1530, with its large sumptuary law(67) did not approve the Landsknecht fashion, but rather, belatedly legitimized, that what in a caste society could not stay without codification and could not be stopped through bans/prohibitions anyways: > a Soldier / so he has a service or a Hauptman in a Train (baggage train) were / … he may in person of the people and as he likes / dress and wear.<(68)

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