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From: Textile Conservation and Research. A Documentation of the Textile Department on the 20th Anniversary of the Abegg Foundation.
Bern, Schriften der Abbeg-stiftung, 1988

As mentioned in my entry on men's knitted hats from this same book, this entry deals with a set of clothing from the Berne Historical Museum. The clothing was originally attributed to Andreas Wild von Wynigen, who fought in at least one battle in 1499 (Dornach). However, the clothing has since been reexamined and it has been determined that this is more likely a reproduction by other members of the von Wyningen family - specifically a grandson who was a tailor and who may have made the set as a 'historical costume' for himself.

There were so many photos to take of the Wams (doublet) and Hosen (pants) that I split it into two entries in an attempt to not overload the usefulness of the photos and to make future use of these sources easier.

This post is image HEAVY...consider yourself forewarned.

First, what the Wams looked like once reconstruction was complete - nice use of points!:



The examination of the section on the preservation and reconstruction of this Wams is extensive. The order I am choosing to post these images is not the same as their order in the book - however, I have been following a 'pretty picture', 'any text' then 'patterns' model with these posts and will continue it here.

Notice how RED the Wams is when wet -



Detail shots of the conservation in progress:

SLEEVES



SHOULDER & NECKLINE

Notice how the patterning of the cut of cloth does not match up the yellow and blue at the shoulder? This has been pointed out - along with the other 'less than perfect construction details' - as evidence of this garment being a "costume" piece rather than an original.



Shoulder detail:



Neck detail:



Now, images of the pattern of the damask from the original piece:

The RED



The BLUE



The YELLOW



Finally, the overall pattern of construction for this piece:



Detail shot, body - 



Detail shot - red sleeve (uncut pattern piece)



Detail shot - Blue and Yellow sleeve (parti-colored pattern piece)



Upper section (further detail):



Lower section (further detail):


 

Back to the Hosen...

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