Costume Institute - Reply!

[hsifeng]

*does a little dance*

So, I got a reply from Elizabeth Bryan from the MET Costume Institute today. I am going to copy and paste it, along with the questions from the original message text, for future reference. 

*Note: I am interested in her response regarding the presence of a 'back seam' not clearly visible from the original photo of the cap.

Dear Cherylyn,

Thank you for your e-mail and interest in The Costume Institute. 

Q:   Where is the cap originally from? A: Unknown- database states German

Q:   Is there any more date-specific information to be had (early, mid- or late century)?  A:  no

Q:  Is there any hypothesis as to the gender of the intended wearer? (We would assume for a woman.)   A: no

Q: Are there diagrammatic sketches of the cap available with measurements?    A:no sketches- (Specifically, is the 13 X 11 inch measurement of the cap when flat, or of the entire length and width of the cap?) length flat 11” width flat 9 ½”

Q: The seam running from the wide/dark border to the narrower border (and apparently through the line of embroidery) appear to curve rather than create a 90 degree angle; is this the case, or an effect of the manner in which the cap is displayed?    A: curve

Q:  Other than those seams visible in the image, are there any others that are not clearly visible? A:back seam that begin from 5 ½ inch from center top to band

Q: The narrower of the two reinforced edges (parallel to the line of embroidery work), appears to have been gathered at some point. Is there any evidence of how this gathering was created; if it was a part of the original cap design, or instead a result of the method in which the cap was stored?    A: no

Q:    How was this edge finished? (Bias) Tape? Wide hem? - THIS QUESTION MAY NOT HAVE BEEN ANSWERED BY THE "No" ABOVE...

Q:   Is the cap lined? Is the darker/wider band of cloth self-lined or lined in another fabric?   A: cap is lined – it appears to be a past conservation treatment

Q:   Does the difference in color between the band and the main ‘body’ of the cap indicate a change in fabric, or the presence of dye?  A:unclear

Please note that we have answered your questions to the best of our ability.  Unfortunately, we are closed for research appointment to date as we are working on an assessment of our collection and are photographing the entire collection.  However in the future I would suggest that if there are any objects that capture your interest as a costume historian that you may want to schedule an appointment to do further research as we may not be providing the details to your satisfaction.

With your permission we can place you on our e-mail and mailing list to keep you abreast of our progress and appointment availability in the future.

Best of luck with your projects.

Sincerely,

Elizabeth Bryan

Elizabeth Q. Bryan, Senior Research Associate

Collections Manager

The Costume Institute

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1000 Fifth Avenue

New York, NY 10028-0198

(212) 396-5441

Comments

[mmcnealy.livejournal.com]

Well, its not as much information as I'd like, but its better than nothing! Thanks for writing and asking. :)

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

Thankfully, the flat measurements at least reveal that this garment item is bigger than we might have originally thought. We also know that this item has a curved seam, which may indicate that it is more fitted to the shape of a head and therefore more likely to be an under layer and less likely to be an outer ‘veil layer’ in the overall Steuchlein layers. We also seem to know that the gathering we’re seeing in the fabric at the “back” of the coif was not a part of any restoration – at least it was not noted as appearing to be from prior conservations efforts in the same way that the lining was.

Which makes me wonder if this item is unlined…

Sadly, there does not appear to be an answer to the question regarding the type of hemming used.

Need to start thinking about a mock up…

I am still curious about the seam that she stated was not visible in the original, the “back seam that begin from 5 ½ inch from center top to band”. I am wondering if she simply means the continuation of the seam that makes up the curve of the ‘bag’ section of the item?

My uncle and aunt were just at the Met this week…too bad I didn’t get a chance to stow away in their luggage! *grin*

[sstormwatch.livejournal.com]

If you ever think about going to NY Met, let me know as I would love to go with you. Just let me know far in advance, so I can save up money for everything.

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

Sounds good to me! Of course, it won't be for a few year (most likely) since I am going to be up to my eyeballs in my MA program shortly.