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Later Period Germans
OK, first off – thank you for your patience with my little ‘Origins of the Landsknecht’ blog-series/project. I swear, I *am* actually sewing and will blog about that soon as well. As a point of observation; I say I won’t quilt because I don’t see the point of cutting fabric into small pieces, sewing it back together and then cutting it up again to sew it in a pattern…and yet I make men’s early-period German costumes where that sort of thing happens all the time… WTF?!?
Aaaaanyway...
In the meantime I want to blog about the costume that I am going to be working on next for the 16th C. And I mean it; I am going to do this one. For sure. First of all – it’s later period. And considering the number of faires that my husband I do that are Elizabethan, this should be a no-brainer. Second, the image for my dress is actually From Köln. You know, that city that my character and her husband are from. And given the amount that I rant about regionalism, you’d think I’d have put my money where my mouth is by now. (*insert eye roll here*) Finally, I have been told by the Costume Mistress at the primary event that we attend that my husband can wear this if I make him the later period set to go with it!
Nürnberg Comedy Commemorative Moose Hunting Hat
And for the color versions, (thank you![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
mmcnealy!) go here. Trust me, GO. It is worth it...
Anyone want to lend a hand with a translation of this bit?
Yes. That hat actually exists.
EDIT 9/9/11: And now I realize that LJ is a bastard and is eating the images of the clothing that I am planning to accompany this hat.
/insert copious cursing here as LJ continues to baffle and annoy me in my efforts to add those images back in to this post
Without further ado:
I plan on making the red dress to the left of this image; although I must admit I have found a few other Kölnish examples that are tempting me as well (which I will blog about separately).
Aaaaanyway...
In the meantime I want to blog about the costume that I am going to be working on next for the 16th C. And I mean it; I am going to do this one. For sure. First of all – it’s later period. And considering the number of faires that my husband I do that are Elizabethan, this should be a no-brainer. Second, the image for my dress is actually From Köln. You know, that city that my character and her husband are from. And given the amount that I rant about regionalism, you’d think I’d have put my money where my mouth is by now. (*insert eye roll here*) Finally, I have been told by the Costume Mistress at the primary event that we attend that my husband can wear this if I make him the later period set to go with it!
Nürnberg Comedy Commemorative Moose Hunting Hat
And for the color versions, (thank you
mmcnealy!) go here. Trust me, GO. It is worth it...Anyone want to lend a hand with a translation of this bit?
Yes. That hat actually exists.
EDIT 9/9/11: And now I realize that LJ is a bastard and is eating the images of the clothing that I am planning to accompany this hat.
/insert copious cursing here as LJ continues to baffle and annoy me in my efforts to add those images back in to this post
Without further ado:
I plan on making the red dress to the left of this image; although I must admit I have found a few other Kölnish examples that are tempting me as well (which I will blog about separately).
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I think it looks knitted - seed stitch or moss stitch, maybe?
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;)
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monstrosityhat like that. Your husband has good taste.As a point of observation; I say I won’t quilt because I don’t see the point of cutting fabric into small pieces, sewing it back together and then cutting it up again to sew it in a pattern…and yet I make men’s early-period German costumes where that sort of thing happens all the time… WTF?!?
This. In spades. I will gladly sew pieced pants. But quilting makes me want to stab myself with scissors.
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Right now I am in the process of taking stripes of shaped fabric and safety pinning them together so that I can then handsew them together ("Look Ma! No visible stitches!") and then stitch them to the pants base once I slash them.
Because I am certifiable.
*chuckle*
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And this fills me with much glee.
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;)
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That isn't what makes quilting, quilting. What you've described, there, is the piecing of a top (sometimes, of necessity, backs of whatever the quilted article is had to be pieced, too) or the outer 'fabric' or surface of said quilted article.
The quilting is the stitching or tying together the front and the backing at intervals, with the stitching or tying threads showing on the surface; it's done to secure the two pieces and the batting or wadding if any is used. If protective padding is part of the article's function, then there will almost certainly be batting or wadding.
Somewhere, quilt possibly in Averil Colby's masterful work on the topic of quilting, is the mention of quilted armor for which there were specifications written out: so many layers of linen or cotton fabric, depending, had to be laid on, between the outer cover and the lining, to be able to stop arrows (and maybe thrown spears?) Somewhere there is at least one reference to paper being used, too, as padding in armor, but personally I find that kind of hard to swallow: paper was frightfully expensive during the Middle Ages and Renaissance, and hard to come by, I understand, as long the Church held a monopoly on it.
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You tell me.
It's you who refuses to "quilt."
My observation was and is merely that the cutting of fabric into pieces and reassembling them into fabric, isn't quilting. It's piecing.
If you think about it, "cutting [whole] fabric into pieces and reassembling those into a larger [shaped] piece" is what we do when we make garments.
For the Sooper Knitters...tattycat, are you there?
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Second, that you a thousand times for actually being German if hubby is going to wear pants like that. I loathe seeing those on "English" people at fairs.
Third, I think the modern equivalent of hunting (as you describe it) must be bowling.
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As for the English wearing Pluderhosen styles: Um...what?!? Aren't there English sumptuary laws on the books in Elizabeth's time that SPECIFICALLY talk about the limitation of yardage in pants because of the infection of English tailors by 'German Fashion'? I swear I have read about this specific issue somewhere.
sstormwatch - am I crazy here?
Finally, I am thinking there has to be a Dick Chaney-esque gig done with this at some point. "Dear, I appear to have shot our friend the jurist in the face while hunting the local fowl. Do be a love and fetch us strong beer and a bit of clean linen..."
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Your moose hat reminds me that I've been waiting close to 10 years for a viking chicken hat from my sister in law. I gave up holding my breath around year 2.
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I am forever infected with optimism about the possibility of people following the advice on my icon. *wink* And even if they don't want to do that the Eliz Cost group on FB and the SNOBS on Tribe are more than willing to do the leg work for them if they'd only be willing to listen.
*sigh*
And now I must insist. Pictures of the Viking Chicken Hat!
I have a similar issue with a Saxon Collar I commissioned *cough*TenYearsAgo*cough*. I need to poke someone about that...thank you for the reminder!
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Here's the original site and lots of other people have various knitting sites around who have improved on the chicken leg, or sized it up for adults, etc.
http://alohamedia.net/sarah/hats/chicken-viking/
I still want it.
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;)
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There has been so much discussion of various parts of this project all over the hell and gone (here, FB, e-mail, etc). that I can’t remember *who* I talked to about *what*, *where*. Anyway. I was running through some old research info today – looking for my list of period v. non-period fruits and veg dontchaknow – and ran across this tidbit regarding Elizabethan sumptuary law in regards to pants yardages.
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SOURCE: Printed by R. Jugge and J. Cawood (London, 1562): Articles for the execution of the Statutes of Apparel, and for the reformation of the outrageous excess thereof grown of late time within the realm, devised upon the Queen's Majesty's commandment, by advice of her Council, 6 May 1562
“And for the reformation of the use of the monstrous and outrageous greatness of hose, crept alate into the realm to the great slander thereof, and the undoing of a number using the same, being driven for the maintenance thereof to seek unlawful ways as by their own confession have brought them to destruction: it is ordained as abovesaid that no tailor, hosier, or other person, whosoever he shall be, after the day of the publication hereof, shall put any more cloth in any one pair of hose for the outside than one yard and a half, or at the most one yard and three-quarters of a yard of kersey or of any kind of cloth, leather, or any other kind of stuff above the quantity; and in the same hose to be put only one kind of lining besides linen cloth next to the leg if any shall be so disposed; the said lining not to lie loose or bolstered, but to lie just unto their legs, as in some ancient time was accustomed; sarcanet, muckender, or any other like thing used to be worn, and to be plucked out for the furniture of the hose, not to be taken in the name of the said lining. Neither any man under the degree of a baron to wear within his hose any velvet, satin, or other stuff above the estimation or sarcanet or taffeta.
“For the due and better execution and observation whereof, the Mayor of London and the rulers and officers of the suburbs and of Westminster, and other exempted places, shall immediately, after this proclamation made, call before them in every of their several jurisdictions all hosiers or tailors making hose dwelling within the precincts of the same, and shall bind every of them in the sum of £40 or more as cause shall require, to the Queen's Highness's use, to observe this part of this said proclamation touching hose, without any manner fraud or guile; which bonds, as any shall be found to offend contrary to this ordinance, they shall certify into the Exchequer with the name of every such offender. In all other cities or towns corporate the mayor and head officers shall do in all points the like, and in all other places the justices of peace; the officers of the Exchequer to certify the Lords of the Queen's Highness's Privy Council at the beginning of every term what bonds have come or have been sent into that office touching the premises till that day, and what number of them have been executed.
“If any hosier shall refuse to enter into such bond, to be immediately committed to ward and to be suffered no more to continue his occupation.”
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Hee! Can I just say how terribly amused at how many times I saw this post referenced on my Friends of Friends list yesterday? Your network is completely awesome!
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It looks like the moose was made separately and attached somehow, but it's hard to tell. The background is seed stitch, and is a great example of purl stitches before 1600 (a lot of people still think they didn't know how to purl back then.)
re: my husband
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The material appears to be linen yarn (per the notes I got from a friend who is going to attempt this from me) and I have no idea about the gauge, etc. However, the hat is supposedly got a 27 cm size. The moose is applique and painted a red that has apparently faded. The eyes are glass beads. It has beady eyes.
OMG!
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Maybe it was in my copy of The Elizabethan Underworld? I have no idea. It's been bugging me ever since I started doing Landsknecht, because I *know* I read it somewhere, but I read so darn much! And I want to be able to cite the reference too!
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I still need to get myself a copy of this damn book. Everyone I know has one...I want to be one of the Kool Kids too! Oh, for a day when every penny isn't already accounted for....
*sigh*
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Its a helluva a thing, but East Prussian clothes look more Polish. I can hook a girl up (my Oma was from East Prussia). I think the guy you have may be Bavarian, but then he coulda bought the crazee hat on a hunting expedition to East Prussia. It has a long German tradition. (Google Rominten)
So you wanna go all Köln on us? Did you know that in the Cologne dialect a dress could be called a fuike or some variant of this spelling. You could have fun with the name!
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Just not sure now the transition from brim to hat body would work...
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Do you happen to have any images of men from Koln laying about? Just curious... *grin*
OK...what is the phonetic pronunciation of 'fuike'? It can't be as dirty as I am thinking it is. ;)
PS: Thank you for the translation, you ROCK!
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Oh, I have a color picture of the hat with more info - like that it is supported on the inside with whalebone. Do you want that I should post it?
For Köln images try Barthel Bruyn (the Younger for later)
Also
http://www.1st-art-gallery.com/thumbnail/323831/1/Sixteenth-Century-Costumes-From-$27omnium-Poene-Gentium-Imagines$27-15.jpg
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Any additional pictures will be a boon to both myself and my hired hat-maker. Of course, I am thinking that whalebone is going to be right-out for support...but I know we can come up with comparable (zip ties anyone?).
Thank you for the suggested artist information!
*scurries off to check out information on resources*
Do you happen to know if Abraham de Bruyn's 'Omnium poene Gentium Imagines' is scanned on the web somewhere (the BSB perhaps)? He seems like he was in the right area at the right time to be a reliable source...I would be curious to see any other images from Köln he might have... :D
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You do know knitters, and it would be worth asking them.
I love the outfits you've chosen to work on. We will be quite the match, both of us in black and red outfits, you in German, me in English.
btw, want to get together this week or next for sewing?
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My mom is a knitter said that it doesn't look like seed stitch and doesn't look like any knitting pattern she knows.
Way cool. Gotta run.
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btw, want to get together this week or next for sewing?
Certainly! I have been sewing at least a couple of hours every night, so just tell me when you'd like to come over. I am normally home by 5:30 PM. :D
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Yes, I think it means "knotted" (and not "knitted", knitting is "stricken" in German) and sadly it also says deer and not moose (moose would be "elch").
Hope this helps. :)
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:D
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