I *AM* A Pretty, Pretty, Princess…

[hsifeng]

OK folks, now for that other project I mentioned in my last post about Schaube. The dress.

It is time for new garb; my old garb is lovely but no longer fits, and I am sort of itching to try out some sewing ideas with a new Rock. The first question, as always, is what dress to make. I love my ‘T-front’ camp dress…but technically I have one of those, and making another of the same dress isn’t really inspiring me at the moment.

So what to do?

Well, the idea of making a ‘pretty, pretty princess’ dress has been cooking in the back of my brain for some time now; but not one of the more common “Saxon Princess” designs with the lacing over the plastron/stomacher* (as femkederoas can attest, there are many other “SP” variations that are lovely and not so typically recreated). While I clearly have thoughts on those styles that I would like to explore (clicky, clicky…) I am still a bit loathe making one for me at this point.

But, I am in love with the high collars.

girlish sigh and much fluttering of hands

To be clear, I am looking for things like this:

Max Ginsberg’s “Single Leaf Woodcuts, V. I”; Hans Sebald Beham; Women and Knaves


Max Ginsberg’s “Single Leaf Woodcuts, V. I”; Jorg Breu, the Elder; 1530; Smelling the Roast


Max Ginsberg’s “Single Leaf Woodcuts, V. IV”; Erhard Schoen; 1519; Anne of Bohemia and Hungary, Later wife of Archduke Ferdinand of Austria



Max Ginsberg’s “Single Leaf Woodcuts, V. IV”; Virgil Solis; 1550; Christine of Saxony


NOT for things like this:

Max Ginsberg’s “Single Leaf Woodcuts, V. III”; Erhard Schoen; 1535; Lansquenet and Wife



Why not the latter image? Well, that high necked design actually appears to be a partlet** being worn over a dress rather than a high necked dress (for those non-Germanic costumers, think early Henrician outer covering or Flemish over cover). This was pretty common in the period, and you find examples of if all over the place and in every class of person from peasant through noble.

Currently this high-collared image is the most inspiring me:

Max Ginsberg’s “Single Leaf Woodcuts, V. I”; Hans Sebald Beham; Army's Train, Two Carts with Provisions



But of course, the lack of any frontal-portion in the shot leaves me wondering just how the bodice closes and what the shaping on the overall ‘neckline’ is.

mutters to self about lack of 3-D imaging in the 16th century

So, if you have thoughts, images, etc. to share when it comes to non-stomacher versions of high necked dresses – send em! I am not worrying about this dress fitting the normal ‘camp follower’ mold (although, it will be predominantly wool because that is what I have gobs of on hand), so if your samples are high-class it is fine by me! *wink*
 


Regardless of the dress I choose, I think I am going to finally try out attack_laurel’s cartridge pleating method. Even though I will be working in wool, and not silk, I am excited to see what I get for results.



*coughthe historical German term is Brusttuck/Brustfleckcough
**coughthe historical German term is Gollarcough

Comments

[brickhousewench.livejournal.com]

I've been looking at the woman on the left in the first image (Hans Sebald Beham; Women and Knaves) myself, but because the top is brocade and the bottom is plain I'd been assuming that it was a collared jacket/doublet/wams over a gown. I think the woman on the right is wearing a gollar.

When I have time to make myself a collared dress, it will be one of those Cranach gowns with a collar like Princess Diana’s Elvis dress. =D

[hsifeng.livejournal.com]

The separate colors for bodice and skirts isn't common, but there are examples of it (if I recall correctly, they become more common later in the 16th century, but still not as common as single color gowns). I don't know if this is an example of that or not, but the slashing in the sleeves of the left hand woman makes me think it is a bodice/double (underlayer) and not a jacket/coat (outer layer). I would totally agree that the woman on the right is wearing a short cape-style Gollar.

I do love the oft-recreated Saxon Princess dresses (the Cranach style gown with the lacing over the plastron/Brustfleck) that you are contemplating making. That is the style that I debated the construction of so much in my 'clicky, clicky' links.

I am slowly getting my mind around the style of high collared dress I am going to attempt. am nervous because I don't think anyone else has done this version - so I am going out on a limb. But I think that may end up being part of the fun! ;)

I am totally looking forward to seeing your dress diaries when you get to work on yours!