hsifeng: (Ladies Sewing Circle)
You know how you sometimes think, "Why don't all my people know each other more?!? My friends are the greatest and my family rocks! We like the same things! Costumes! Booze! Adventure! How can we all spend more time doing that stuff together...  I have a brilliant plan!"

And thus CoCo 2013 was born.*

[livejournal.com profile] claughter713 and I were lazing around on the interwebz one afternoon** when she sent me a set of pictures from The White Dinner hosted in SF. The images were of our friends, T, J & K, in a series of beautiful shots that all featured the amazing floral headdresses that J had put together for their table's guests at the event. I wish I had those images to share with you here, but basically our reaction is summarized as follows:

"OMGOMGOMG!!! MUCHA MUCHA MUCHA! We need to do this for CoCo!"

A plan was hatched.

We set up a secret pin board and began collecting images, and then we started talking to the folks we normally room with. Would they be interested too? Did they have anyone they'd like to have join in as well? What did we need to do to organize this thing? Etc., etc., etc. We ended up with 13 ladies, some of whom had never been to CoCo before (and some who still need to make it out - *cough*[livejournal.com profile] sewinggoddess*cough*), and a couple of whom hadn't done any costuming to speak of prior to this project.

Thank god for having a deep pool of talent to draw on!

[livejournal.com profile] claughter713 set up a space for workshops, J taught us all how to make fabulous headdresses, [livejournal.com profile] harmanhay shouted encouragements from England, we all hunted the internet for resources. And that is where we hit our first snag...

Dude. The internet is supposed to have EVERYTHING right? Then why are tutorials on how to make dresses in the style of Alphonse Mucha *so damn thin on the ground*?!? Sure, Deviant art and Tumblr have a hand full of images of folks who have done similar projects in the past - but none of them blogged the process of making the darn things!

*sigh*

As a result, a few of us have said we'd write up our processes in an attempt to populate the WWW with something useful to say.

This isn't that post.

But that post is coming soon.

:)

PS: The headdress workshop was amazing and we are trying to convince J to hold one as a class at CoCo 2014 - because EVERYONE NEEDS A MUCHA HEADDRESS RIGHT NOW.

PPS: The best thing about owning a Mucha headdress? Wearing it for non-Mucha related activities. I am not sure I can ever go to Mexican food without one on again. Life. Changing.

PPPS: There may or may not be a secret society as a result of all this. There may or may not be a secret handshake for that society. There is definitely a secret cocktail.


Mucha Maidens CoCo 2013


*Ok, there may be more to it than that (some of these folks may have already been going together for years and others may have been going regardless, whatever - The Plan Was Still Brilliant).

**i.e. Linkspamming each other via FB chat between projects at work and generally going, "Oh! Oh! But have you seen THIS case of humans being ____ today!?!"

Success!!!

May. 19th, 2012 08:11 pm
hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)
Signed up for four limited classes at CoCo.

Got into all four.

And I'm acting as a model in one of them (which means I get Free Pattern Goodness!).

SUCCESS!

*grin*
hsifeng: (Landsknecht)

So awhile back I was harassing a Landsknecht friend of mine about his uncovered head. After bearing up under the torment for a bit, he pointed out that if I didn't like him walking around without a hat on I was perfectly capable of making him a hat to fix the situation.

Well crap...

So, after some discussion and some woodcut viewings he decided upon a Tellerbarret (a 'pizza hat' to those of you not well versed in the terms of the period). One can only assume he wanted to have a wide brim to hide his precious, fair-skinned face from the sun. *chortle* 

So I got to work, using these instructions which I posted YEARS ago to the das Heiligesturm Fahnlein BBS board after having been shown how to produce this version by a friend down south. 

Of course, the last time I made one of these up it was in linen. And let me tell you - making it out of wool was a VERY different experience. 

Cut for those who need their bandwidth for more important things... )

This project took me longer than I thought it would, but I am totally pleased with the results. I am not so sure that this is a 'cheat' really - I mean, it's a wire rimmed brim but it is totally possible that they used wire this way in the period. 

While I would be cautious to take on another one of these in wool (and would probably use a lighter weight wool than the remnant of  medium-coat-weight wool/cashmere that we used here) I actually prefer the final result in this fabric to the earlier linen model I made. It is no where near as floppy and I suspect that it will hold up better in the long run. 

hsifeng: (Creative Sewing)
As you may remember, I had decided awhile back to tackle a project to recreate false braids ala the 16th C in Germany. These items, known as 'Zopfe' in Nürnberg, were frequent items in the dress indices of the period of study covered by Jutta Zander-Seidel's research in the "Textiler Hausrat".

I actually started with an attempt at a reconstruction back in 2010, only to put it aside in favor of other projects. I got as far as making and stuffing a number of mock-up 'tubes' for the basic braid forms, but no farther. Then, this past June I decided to resurrect the project as something to work on while I was at an event for my birthday. I grabbed the stuffed forms (muslin sausages with synthetic batting for fill - hey! - they were mock ups!) and some left over silk from flag making and got to work. 

The resulting items would NOT work in my hair (which is thin and was only just past my shoulders at the time). But they did OK in a friends much more copious locks:



*psst*  
[livejournal.com profile] vanagnessayem That is my version of your hat I am wearing there...

So, the size was bad. Going back to the 'Textiler Hausrat' image of the gentleman holding what Mrs. Zander-Seidel believes to be Zopfe, it was clear that my scale was *way* off. So I started over. 

Here Be Pictures... )

Honestly, I couldn't be happier with the results! I now have some amazing (and period!) Punk Rock hair accessories to have fun with for feasts. I look forward to finding reasons and opportunities to wear them in 2012! ;)

hsifeng: (Just You WAIT!)
...and that I can appreciate other people's children while not wanting any of my own...

http://thewinchesterbros.tumblr.com/post/13854055418

Yes, I have been bad about posting for the past few months ; mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!
 
It wasn’t you LJ, it was me.
 
Sure, I’ve been sewing and gardening and reading and generally Being Alive and all those things that I used to write you about.
 
But I just haven’t been writing.
 
I don’t know why. But I promise to try and change my ways. *crosses heart*
 
So – in an attempt to play some catch up, here are some items I plan on posting about when I can manage to get the associated photos corralled:
 
1)      Making a German Tellerbarret (Pizza Hat): The Non-Period Way!
2)      Roadkill Showgirl or, ‘How I Learned To Relax And Let My Headwear Drive’
3)      GISHWHES! DAMN YOU MISHA COLLINS!
4)      The Holidays – Reasons To Buy And Wear Zombie Accessories
 
Here’s a preview of #2 – just so you know I am serious…


hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)

OK, one last post. I swear. *crosses fingers behind back*

Working on the dress this past week, and reading along as [livejournal.com profile] vanagnessayem has been working on hers, made me wonder something.

What order do you guys put your (German) dresses together in?

Just curious, since it is apparent that [livejournal.com profile] vanagnessayem and I have a slightly different order and it made me wonder what other combinations are out there.

Once the basic patterning is done (and I have to repattern EVERY TIME I make myself a costume because I rarely make things for myself and then only when weight loss or gain force me to):

1)      Construct bodice, when bag lining incorporate closures and trim in construction process;

2)      Try on bodice, bitch about fit, swear to not change it. Sleep. Fix fit;

3)      Figure and cut skirt and skirt trimmings, assemble trimmings on skirt while skirt is flat;

4)      Gather skirt onto a) bodice, b) waistband and then attach said waistband to bodice;

5)      Sew up front of skirt, working to match bands of guards in a manner that is pleasing (ie. doesn’t make me cry, curse or drink);

6)      Try on dress again, figure out how much hem I have to turn back;

7)      Hem dress (pray I don’t have to take it out and re-do it);

8)      Try on dress and celebrate;

9)      Remember I still have sleeves to do (although, now that I have a good sleeve pattern this isn’t such a painful thing to remember);

10) After sleeves are done and attached go over dress one last time.

I totally understand if this ‘order of construction thing’ isn’t something you are interested in. But thanks for stopping by anyway!

;)


hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)

That's right folks...she's sewing again...

Inspiration piece:




·         New bodice pattern (side-back seamed with shoulders set slightly to the back, center-front closing) complete.

·         Bodice liner (two medium weight canvas layers) cut and sewn

·         Cheater' lacing strips inserted

·         Woolen bodice body is half cut out

For the first time, I am not bag-lining my bodice. I am going to be reusing my fitting pieces as my liner, and after each piece is ‘covered’ in woolen outer fabric they will be whipstitched together to form the bodice body. The contrasting “T” for the bodice will be added after the sleeves have been set in and the hook and eyes have been stitched on (since the shoulder straps are pretty narrow and at the edges of my shoulders, the trim will actually lap over onto the top of my sleeves; the trim will also cover the fact that my front-closure hook and eyes are always stitched through ALL layers on my bodices (helps to avoid ye olde fabric shift).

The gnome hat and short sleeved jacket will be next on my list. I have thoughts on how those jacket sleeves are formed, and how to keep the hat semi-firm…but if you have thoughts as well please feel free to share them!


hsifeng: (Sudlerin)

I was recently asked by a friend to describe how I had made one of the first Steuchlein’s I ever attempted. I make no bones about the fact that this is *not* a historically correct version – although the end results are nice looking.

What you will need:

Get a large, plastic coffee tin lid. The old fashioned Yuban or Folgers type. This need to be clear/white in color. I know more modern Folger’s lids are red… You can also use a smaller macramé hoop (metal ring).

Heavy weight buckram; about 1/2 yard.

Batting or rope roving (see below for description of use to get an idea of how much you might want)

Linen fabric (see note for batting above)

Silk/light weight veil fabric (see note for linen above)

Historical pins; I recommend between 8 - 20 depending on your budget (available at a number of online retailers)

Here are the basics:

Using the lid/ring as base, build a buckram ‘flower pot’; the lid should be the smallest point, with the buckram flaring out from that size to a size that will fit your head (behind your ears). You can cut the buckram so that it fits around your ears more easily once your basic shape is done. The angle that you cut it at will determine where the ‘crown’ of your hat sits (bigger and higher up in earlier period, smaller and more toward the back of the head is later period).

At the front peak of the flowerpot (the point where it rests on the top of your head) sew in a haircomb. This will keep the whole thing in place.

Once your flowerpot is done, use batting (or ‘rope roving’ – the sort of batting that comes in a coil) to pad the area around the base of your flowerpot (nearest to the lid/hoop) to whatever size you want; again bigger = earlier, smaller = later.

Now, you will want to find some pretty linen fabric (maybe with a woven in pattern of some sort). Make sure you have at least one layer of linen that is thick enough to use as a base that will conceal the support structure you have built. You will drape this fabric over the flowerpot, making sure to leave enough overlapping the front edge to cover your forehead. I usually start out with a square of linen that is my head measurement + 6” wide and my center forehead, back over the top of the flowerpot to the base of my neck + 6” long.

To begin draping, I recommend that you pin this fabric in place at approximately the same spot that you put the hair comb (don’t forget to leave the extra draped for covering your forehead!). Once this is secured, begin making pleats over the ‘base’ of your flowerpot. These can be arranged in a number of ways, but should gather the fabric in to the base of your neck.

Try the hat on. If the fabric is arranged to your liking, you are ready to sew it into place. If not, play with it until you like the way it looks.

Once the fabric is draped (and remember, you may be doing more than one layer if your ‘pretty linen’ needs a heavier underlayer in order to cover your hats framework) hand-sew your pleats in place. You should do this so that there are a minimum of stitches showing on the outer layer of the hat. This can be accomplished in a number of ways, I recommend sewing on the underside of your pleats, securing them to your batting layer.

Once this is done, you can make the extra gathered fabric at the base of your nape neater by cutting away any excess, and then covering the cut ends with a rectangular ‘pouch’ of the same fabric. You see this sort of rectangle on the backside of a number of these hats.

Finally, get yourself some very light (silk?) veil fabric. Cut and hem this to about the same size as your linen layers (maybe a skosh bigger). I recommend not sewing this layer on, but instead using tiny brass pins (as were used in the period) to secure it and it’s pleating to your hat. 

Enjoy!

Out of sense of fair warning, I must say that the disadvantage of this style are:

1)      It is not easy to clean, and you will end up with ‘ring around the forehead’. You could solve this with an internal layer that you can take off to launder more easily;

2)       This version does not have a lot of ‘squish’ factor without doing some permanent damage to the hat. You may want a hatbox for storage, and wearing a Tellerbarret (pizza hat) over this version would be difficult in a larger size.

 The results will probably look something like this (dont' judge, it was my first German outfit...*chuckle*):


hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)

*And yes, I add that every time that I use a “2” in a title to indicate the second part of a post. Because I am an idiot.




For those of you who don’t know, [livejournal.com profile] claughter713  is BRILLIANT!

She found me this page, which goes into great detail about making a 18th century corset pattern. Out of cardboard.

 

That’s right, the Google-fu that totally failed me, [livejournal.com profile] claughter713  has it. In spades.

*runs around doing the happy dance and generally flailing like a monkey on crack*

Cheers Dears!


hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)

As someone who has only been lurking on the Yahoo ‘h-cost’ list for a little bit; I am constantly amazed by the brilliant sewing tips that pop up there. For example, this little gem:

“A note on fitting corset muslins:

“A hint I got several years ago - don't remember from where - was to create two strips out of heavy material - old jeans will do in a pinch. Make them at least double thickness, and put a narrow bone of some sort along the edge fold. Then put in grommets about every inch. Make them longer than you think you'll need for any possible corset style you might ever make. These can then be basted into a muslin so you can lace it up properly to check the fit, without having to put in grommets, try to pin it to fit (not happening), or making slits that then rip out after one fitting. Once you have the fit, remove them and use them for the next corset muslin.

“These have made corset making much easier!!

“Sandy”



*boggles* OMG. Why didn’t I think of that?!?

*beats head against desk for the years of ‘pin hell’ she has subjected herself and others to*


On another note, here’s one I picked up from a friend ages ago.

Get a length of ‘swing set’ weight chain (ie. the weight you find on children’s outdoor gym equipment, not the kind you’d lock your bike up with), about 6 yards long. Longer if you’d like.

Using old fabric of a medium weight, make yourself a length of bias tape, where the finished tape (when folded in half to make a casing) is about 2” wide.

Sew one ‘end’ of the tape shut, sewing in a sturdy cord or ribbon.

Tie the cord or ribbon to the last link in your chain.

Carefully sew the chain into the tape, enclosing the entire length of the chain in the casing. There should be enough room to easily sew the tape closed, this will be important later. Sew another ribbon/cord into the open end of the tape, type other end of chain to this.

Now, you should have a very long, weighted ‘chain snake’ covered in a medium weight fabric with the chain tied securely into each end of the casing.

What to do with this item, you ask?

This clever little bit will help you hang the bias stretch out of your fabrics for skirts, skirting, cloaks, etc.

Simply cut your pattern out, then sew the panels/pieces together which need to be stretched. In other words, if you are stretching a cloak, sew together the pieces of the body, but don’t worry about the pieces in the hood (unless they need separate stretching, for some reason). Then sew the ‘chain snake’ to your mocked up garment’s lower hem.

Finally, secure your mocked up garment’s upper hem to a sturdy dowel which you can hang over hooks in a location that can get wet. I have a couple of old ‘bike hanging’ hooks secured to rafter ends in my back yard in a shady location. Once your garment is hanging, with the weight at the lower end, wet it.

Between the water and the weight, your bias stretch will hang itself out relatively quickly (I normally do this with wool, and depending on fabric’s weight it takes 2-3 days and 2-3 wettings to get all the bias stretched out).

Once the fabric has stretched, you will need to re-cut your lower hem to level it.

But at least you won’t end up with ‘short and long’ bits on your garment as time stretches the bias on a finished piece!



Anyone else have some tricks-o-the-trade ore “homemade sewing tools” to share?
hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)



Yeah...sometimes it feels like that....*chortle*
hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)
Oh interwebz, I know that some of you have access to images of historical pinking/fabric embossing tools; care to share? I ask because a blacksmith I know is interested in possibly taking up making some of these as a project and I am woefully short of materials for him to reference. I understand that there are a few images in the JA book on later 16th C. dress, but I can't locate those online. Anyone out there interested in these types of tools for your own use? (Did run across this little gem though - never thought of using plastic tarp that way before!) EDIT 12/18: Information has been passed to the craftsperson; we'll see what he says!

*whine*

Aug. 10th, 2009 09:20 am
hsifeng: (handsewing)
"But Moooooom! I have to go to England and look at embroidered jackets...all the Kool Kids are doing it!"

*le sigh*
hsifeng: (handsewing)

As I start to look around for options for my event handsewing kit...the lovely Katrin from 'Togs-From-Bogs' happens to be setting up a stock of nifty items for her shop. Grand idea...if you happen to live in Europe where her stall will be available. *le sigh* Katrin has been great and has been quoting me pricing for bits and pieces as they come up, but she's gonna want to put together an online store soon or else she'll end up doing nothing by answering my damn e-mails....

For example: Does this little jewel look familar? Check my icon before you answer...


And then there are these lovely little gems. Not sewing per se, but something I would dearly love to have for my 'odds and ends' kit; parchment card weaving tablets. I have had leather cards for years and they are only so-so because they tend to snag on the warp of my projects - not good. These little beauties would be 22 Euro (plus shipping) for a set of 12:



Other items I know I can get more locally; needles, thimbles, beeswax, etc. (thanks [profile] kass_rants!) I am pretty sure I can even convince my husband to make me some sewing pins, since I will need quite a few of them in order to make up a nice 'pin roll' strip.

I have a very nice needle case already and I believe that the same man who made that item is working up some more thread bobbins for me as well. I would like to find some sheers like the ones in the image below (linked to larger image). 



I used to have a pair of old-fashioned spring sheers (most commonly used for sheep sheering in recent years, I believe) in a leather case, but those seem to have been lost at some point on the reenactment trail.

PS: [livejournal.com profile] sstormwatch, let me in on any cool stuff you happen to find for your kit - M'kay? Perhaps I should volunteer to help you out at an upcoming event...

EDIT: [livejournal.com profile] starcannibal (undercover, over on Tribe) posted this lovely late period thimble from the V&A's shops:

hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)

 Working multiple projects at the same time seems to lead to prevent boredome and create a lot of project progress, but not much in the way of updating my journal! Despite the long silences, I have been working consistently on the following items;

 
“Museum of Bath” style shirt for hubby

Sock patterning (for[info]the_fin)

Bandoleer stringers for hubby & self

Mending (general gear up-keep)

Gardening (I really need to post an update on this – we have *lots* of seedlings now!)

 

I don’t have photos and info on all these projects online yet, but I did snap some shots of the patterning and the work done on the MoB shirt this weekend.

 

So here you go! )

Hubby spent the weekend cooking amazing food (filet minon au pouvre and chocolate ganache torte...*yum*) and keeping us all entertained (Gluckhaus after dinner was both cut-throat and fun!) while I was burrowed in with these projects. He *is* fabulous and totally deserves a flash new shirt, even if he's right about it being a little too nice for a regular soldier. He declared a half-dozen times, "You're trying to make an officer out of me!"  Now why would I do that to someone I love?!? *giggle*

The visit with [profile] the_fin  and M was a blast - he's got a nice girl there! We did a lot of BSing and just generally enjoyed each others company. [profile] the_fin  shared some new music from Idiot Stare that is going to keep our feet tapping for some time to come (when is the rest of the record coming out!?!). M was a lot of fun, great to chat with and didn't blanch when the three 'Ren Geeks' started going off about faire and reenactment. *chuckle* Now that takes tolerance! 

After our company left, the weekend ended with some gun cleaning ("I love the smell of blackpowder in the morning - HooRaa!"), TV catch-up and a nice cuddle. We missed the presence of [livejournal.com profile] shadowd1  who was waylaid by a bad back, but we are hoping to catch up with her soon!

I wish I had another two days off! *grin*
hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)

Not much to report on this front and only one *new* picture (so no cut). I finished off sleeve number one at 12:46 AM last night. One sleeve down, one to go! This morning, I got up before my alarm, did the garden and house chores that are my normal AM routine and then sat down to rework the red thread detail on the updated shirt front.

Got it finished at 7:33 AM - just enough time to throw on some clothes and head to work.

Yes, I showered!

Updated shirt front:


I think it looks much nicer with the double row of drawn thread/stitching on the sides than it did as a singe row...



I have to get the other sleeve done tonight, as well as the roping on my packbasket. That means I will be spending *all* my spare time today and tonight working on these projects...and not studying...for the German test...that is Monday.

*head desk*

EDT: As of 11:47 PM the shirt embroidery is done. Now to assemble the pieces tomorrow and to work on the handsewing over the weekend!

It's OK, I get to drop one score...*le sigh*
hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)

Well, I did say I got a lot done this weekend. With the School of the Renaissance Soldier coming up next weekend, I knew that hubby could use a second high collared shirt for the event. His breast plate strap digs into his neck too much for his open necked shirt to work well at any event where his armor is going to see use.

So, I started out with a plan to make a simple version of the JA 'Museum of Bath' shirt. I have made this sort of shirt before for the hubby and he likes them. I already planned to hand-sew the shirt (OK, OK, I am going to machine the straight seams and then french seam by hand). At any rate, this was going to be a very simple linen shirt.

And then something in my brain went *snap*...be careful, there are a *lot* of photos under here... )
So, the shirt is not so simple anymore - but I am going to be much happier with the results. It should easily be done by Sunday of the event, and gives me something to sew on while we are there. I will have to make him another, simple shirt later...*chuckle*

EDT: Damnitalltohell. I just took another look at the shirt front on my lunch break. I need to pull the stitches on the pulled thread pieces and make another row to match up properly with the collar. Obviously I was running on fumes when I did this part the first time. Thankfully, it is an easy fix and will only set me back abou 30 minutes of work!

EDT2 (4/14/09): Shirt front re-prepped and ready for embroidery tonight!
hsifeng: (www.crackafuckingbook.com)

For Future Reference:


 

Steuchlein

May. 30th, 2008 03:12 pm
hsifeng: (Creative)
 
So, I am in the process of updating my Steuchlein. Last weekend I did some work with hair taping and played around with a new Wulst roll: I liked the results enough that I am proceeding with phase 2 this weekend – creating a Wulsthaube/Unterhaube to hold the roll in place and cover it.
 
As a reminder to myself as I move on with this process, the known components of a complete Steuchlein (mushroom hat) are shown in the following list. As no extant versions survive today to show us exactly how they looked, or how precisely they were assembled, I am guessing at the reconstruction – just like everyone else…*grin*:

Wulst (wool stuffed roll)
Wulsthaube/Unterhaube (linen cap over the roll - one layer or two is the question...)
Schleiertuch (linen veil..again, how many of these?)
Kinnbinde (chin band), in earlier periods, which makes for both a modesty cloth and a good protection against the dust of the trail.

In my opinion, the Unterhaube or an underlayer of Schleier is what we see covered in embroidery which shows through the lighter outermost Schleiertuch. Once I figure out how many layers I am going to have in my hat, I will work out some embroidery to make my hat pretty!
 
The manner hair taping that I did last weekend at Korneburg (it was under my hat most of the day, so not everyone would have seen it if you were there), is demonstrated here. Juliana got her hair taped by the ladies who wrote the 'Tudor Tailor' book and has recreated the experience on YouTube for the rest of us. 

I plan on building a cap like the one she puts on at the end as my Wulsthaube this weekend.

BTW - images of the original hair taping, as well as the other hat sessions from the 'Tudor Tailor' workshop held in 2007 in San Jose can be seen on [profile] sstormwatch‘s Flickr page.
 
Any thoughts, suggestions or input would be appreciated!
hsifeng: (Creative)
OK, I have a few techniques I am planning on testing out and I am going to document them here for others who might find them interesting. They have to do with the making, binding and filling (use) of point holes for the 16th century.

The scope of the project should be worked out before the first weekend in April (when I plan on my husband using his new Waffenrock with these items in place on it), for the School of the Renaissance Soldier.

Project #1: Point holes reinforced with metal rings ala the examples in Janet Arnold.

Project #2: Point lacings made of lucet cord

Project #3: Point lacing made of fingerlooped braids.

Project #4: Point lacings made of linen (via my new ¼” bias tape maker).

Updates as I make progress…. The Waffenrock should be ready for me to place points on by sometime next week...

UPDATE ON POINT HOLES #1: 3/17/08 


Completed 'test holes' in sample fabric work up. Sample fabrics used match the liner and wool outer that are being used on my husbands new Waffenrock: That means two layers of medium weigh canvas and two layers of light weight wool had holes put thru them. A picture of all materials used is included below. These include the sample fabric, a tailors awl, a #4 (5/32") leather hole punch & a variety of copper and alloy 'jump washers' that I flattened using a pair of needle nosed pliers - washer sizes #8-#10.


 

Discovered that I like the punched holes more (*duh* the threads are no longer there to crowd back in to the voided space - making the sewing much easier), but that the tailors awl holes were almost identical in size so long as I worked them *with the awl in place* to hold the shape until the threads were in place to retain the shape of the opening. The awl also worked well for holding the metal backing ring in place while I did my sewing...hummmmm So, I guess I really don't know which technique - punch or awl - that I will use on my final product. *shrug* I don't have to make a decision 'right now'. *chuckle*

Photos of finished hole included, with close up of metal backing ring in place - this is taken from the 'back side/inside' of the fabric.  Please forgive my late-night-tried-after-sewing-all-day stitch technique. *grin*


 

Need new photo of finished hole - this first one was too dark...
 

I will be taking my test fabric to Meg's tomorrow so that I have sample sizes to test my completed points lacings against. With any luck, I will get both lucet and fingerloop braid completed to use as samples.

 

 

UPDATE ON POINT LACING #2: LUCET LACING - 3/19/08

OK, so I *may* change my mind on this once I get a chance to try fingerloop braiding - but I am pretty sold on lucet cord for points at this time. They are easy to produce - you can make them in multicolor if you want to (still need to learn this technique) and stretchy which would be an advantage when dealing with the points at the back of a man's Hosen/Wams connection. I will upload some photos of my work in progress: Still plan on meeting with Meg again next week to go over finishing the cords and how to do some other styles of laces. I tried four types of fiber: Handspun wool, medium weight wool yarn, embroidery thread and embroidery floss (all six strands). What I learned is this:

Handspun - I need to work on my spinning! *chuckle* Seriously though, I used to think it was soooo cool that I could spin such a fine thread. The only handspun I had to work with was waaaay too thin and wouldn't have held up well. I may still geek out and spin a heavier thread on my walking wheel to lucet and hand dye for points. The thought did wander across my mind that fulling a handspun lucet cord might give a nice stretch while still retaining the overall strength of the fiber. Something to play with later...

Wool yarn - unless you use a *very* small yarn, you are going to get a final cord that is way too big for a point hole. This weight might be good for some other cording applications, but not my points.

Embroidery thread - I think this might work out if my point holes were larger. It comes in a wide variety of colors and is already 'spun' so it would be pretty strong.

Embroidery floss (all six strands used) - this will be what I am using on this project unless something else jumps out at me. The final cord was the right size for my holes; the material comes in a wide variety of colors and has a nice finish and stretch when corded.

Now to get hubby to make his aglets....*grin*


 

UPDATE ON POINT LACING #3: FINGERLOOP LACING - 7/16/08


 

 

I have been playing with fingerlooping on-and-off for three weeks now. Other than the confusion that comes with interpreting each pattern authors 'take' on explaining the process of their braiding, it is easy and almost mindless once you get into a rhythm.  I have only tried two types of fiber with this cord making technique and here is what I have found:

 

Wool yarn - This makes some very nice trim work, and can be done (at least in the three loop braid that I know so far) i a manner that produces a flat tape. I love the overall appearance and can't wait to learn more patterns. By far the easiest material to work these projects in - forgiving on the fingers and easy to 'untangle' when necessary. WINNER!

Embroidery floss - This makes a nice, tight cord for lacing (it looks a lot like the four strand braids when done, but easier to do!), and can come out nicely when done in three loop pattern with more than one color. However, it is murder on the fingers! I will learn to endure it because I think I am going to make hubby a brown and red set of points for his Waff (to replace the red only lucet ones that he is using now) - I really like the final product!


 

All in all, I should learn to just listen to

[livejournal.com profile] jillwheezulwhen she tells me that I "should just use fingerloop braids for points". *chuckle* But then I wouldn't have had a much fun!

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