hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)
So about a year ago (or more - I could be suffering under the delusion that this all happened faster than it really did) I promised my loving husband a new kit for our 16th century playtime.

I sat down and draft patterny-bits, forced him to suffer through endless muslin fittings. And then sat on my duff for MONTHS waiting for the Sewing Muse to settle her ass down for a visit.

I tell you, that bitch NEVER shows up when I call.

Anyway; about three months ago I gave up on hearing from my muse and simply settled for starting in on the necessary cutting and piecing and sewing (and sewing and sewing and sewing and fingerlooping and sewing and cutting more and then some drinking and some crying and self-recriminations for why I get these things going only to abandon them and then more sewing... You know. The usual.)

And after more hours of handsewing* than I have done since I decided that THIS MONSTROSITY could not have machine sewn trim ("For History!") I have this bad-boy about 95% in the bag.

Blurry cell phone photo is blurry...

What is all that handsewing I was just bitching about?

All these stripes were pieced from the original leg pattern (after I had lengthened each section for the right amount of 'bag') and then sewing together with butted edges only to be slashed in between the butted seams. Because that is how the damn woodcut shows these pants.

Damn woodcut.

Yes, there is some fraying. It's just gonna happen with these and I will trim it up as we go as needed. There was only a bit of this fabric in my stash (yeah for fabric-stash-using-projects!) and so bias cuts weren't always an option. Thankfully the blue fabrics are pretty thick and pre-felted. The maroon on the other hand? A non-felting twill weave in a light weight wool.

How to 'weight match' and reduce potential shredding of the maroon side?

Line. Every. Single. Pane.

No, these are not all handsewn. Because the seams are on the inside and I am not that crazy.

As the project progressed, I realized that the pants weren't (in fact) the nuttiest part of this build. Sure, they had more butted seams to deal with than the Wams does. But at least all those seams are mostly up-and-down in nature. The Wams (jacket for you uninitiated)? Those friggin seams go EVERYWHERE. Not only are they effected by the shaping around the body, the also do all sort of fun pattern join ups on the shoulders of the inspiration image. Join ups That I got to reproduce in real life.

I swear to god. These friggin artists are all laughing their asses off in some happy Hell where they spend time coming up with new ways to screw with us mere mortals who are trying to reproduce ACTUAL clothing based on their reference. Bastards.

Wams Front. Matching pieces across the Brusttuck, Wams body and sleeve.

Wams Back: Where the matching flows over the shoulder and into the back pieces, and then matches up down the arm and into the back of the arm to boot. I swear, it looks just like the woodcut.

The Maroon Side. Where I placed running stitches in a slightly contrasting thread; just so the curvy seams from the blue side had something matched on their opposite number.

And my favorite part of this ensemble? Well, actually there are two.

1) The garters at the bottom on the blue leg. Because they look like a waterfall to me.

2) The fact that these pants are 'transitional' in their appearance. Enough so that when they are paired with Chris fitted arm doublet (the one he normally wears under his Waffenrock) he looks more like 1570 than 1530. All we need is a sugarloaf hat and we can push that date even further toward 1600...

http://snjacobson.com/ALC12/ - Image #50.

Now it's all the finishing bits. Currently working on fingerlooping new (matchy!) points for the Hosen-to-Wams and also for the Wams-to-Brusttuck. Need to place the point holes and possibly handmade hook-and-eyes to mount the Brusttuck into place. Then at some point I am going to piece some socks so he is set from feet to shoulders.

There is a good chance I will be wearing this outfit at CoCo this year. Just so I can have an excuse to complain about handsewing. *chuckle*

*Please don't get me wrong; my handsewing is nothing to write home about. I don't have tiny, perfect, even stitches - they tend more toward Frankenstein than anything else. The only thing I can say is that I have such a hate on for top stitching in reproduction clothing from my preferred period that I will go to great (and occasionally rediculous) lengths to avoid any semblance of machine sewing.
hsifeng: (Blackpowder Love)
For those of you following the Moose Hat thread, [livejournal.com profile] mmcnealyhas posted the full color versions here

And because I am a freak, I am loading there here as well...

ALL PHOTOS BELONG TO [livejournal.com profile] mmcnealy!

And one more black and white from the Bildindex that is mentioned at M's site (for reference to the linen liner):

Also more information via jillwheezul here

hsifeng: (Food!)


Per the information included above, there is going to be 'hands on tasting' at the workshop. The good news is, this is a 'pre-RWA Guild Meeting' workshop (*perhas a smaller crowd, perhaps not). The bad new is, I have not idea how many items I should bring....


I am already planning on bringing some springerle cookies (since they can be made up a month in advance - *yipes* that is NOW), and I am considering bringing some period 'sauces' in order to demonstrate the overall differences in the flavor spectrum from the Medieval period (sweet and savory with meat isn't something that is common in the modern sense of taste).  

I don't want to serve meat or anything that might spoil.

I will be attacking the recipe books tonight for more ideas and then sharing them tomorrow for input. If you have any favorites you'd like to share from past events, please let me know! 

Our headcount for the class is currently 10 folks, T expects 20, but will cap the class at 30 if we get there.
hsifeng: (Default)
Take a look at what she came up with and let me know if you think my color ideas are bad: I am going for the more 'traditional' Boy Scout merit badge color scheme in the background colors, with some nice *pop* colors in the hat and feathers....

Aiden is going to *die* when he gets this! 


I love it when evil plans come together....
hsifeng: (www.crackafuckingbook.com)
I am going to start webbing some site I have found with good content. These will all be food related and will end up in the workshop bibliography if I use any of their content in the final class. I am going to keep adding to this same entry (to keep it all in one place for my ease of access), so keep checking back if you are interested.

General Reference at www.netlibrary.com & www.books.google.com/

www.godecookery.com The main source, I will list specific sections of the site that I have interest in using below this point:

www.wikipedia.org There are a number of entries that I have been seeing in The Land of Wiki that I think I will use. They are inventoried below:
http://goldenlyon.org/cgkit.html#Cucina_per_campagna_stores  (this totally makes me want to do an *actual* cooking workshop...)  This site includes a list of the food prepared for the workshop including spices, sauces, etc. Seems pretty consistent with my information on the items commonly found in medieval cookbooks - Powder Forte, Verijuice, etc. - perhaps could be used for 'feast' reference with some information for common herbages as well. There is a ton of inforamtion on camp cooking that this group appears to have compiled in various PDF's in other sections of the site.  Might even use some of the same sauces as sample foods, with bread for dipping. 

http://search.ebscohost.com.ezproxy.sfpl.org/login.aspx?direct=true&db=f5h&AN=23628198&site=ehost-live Link to that article, "Birth of the Modern Diet" - Scientific American, Special Edition: Recommended by Leighlani.

DHF Internal 'Food Porn - Reformation Style' thread: Viewable to members of the Guild only (sorry!).  Found these (still working!) old links from prior research in here:
        Francesco Sirene, Spicer - for purchases of supplies
        http://www.katjaorlova.com/MedievalKitchenEquipment.htm - overview of kitchen goods and how order was maintained in large period kitchens (clip art of kitchen impliments)
        http://www.keskiaika.org/kirjasto/food/preparation.htm - more kitchen info and food preservation including information on wine that I would like to include
        The Consumption of Spices and Their Costs in Late-Medieval and Early-Modern Europe
hsifeng: (Creative)
  So, [profile] landsknecht_po and [livejournal.com profile] rectangularcat took some amazing photos while they were in Europe the last couple of weeks. Including these lovelies:

After some browsing of their other trip galleries (and another search for the following images conducted by [profile] landsknecht_po), the use of these little lad was discovered.

So, I decided to do some digging to see if I could find these online...only to discover that there are apparently *NO* merchants selling this type! *Harumph*

I have a couple of resources to explore here in town. But if you happen to spot these online - hook a sista up!

More images from racaire:




hsifeng: (Creative)

I've been brewing over ideas about the construction for the Wulst/Wulsthaube/Steuchlein &  'chin strap'**. Now I am going back and attempting to compile the various internet resources I have available from those that have made these before.

[personal profile] marion has a lovely site with information on her construction and research.

[profile] saragrace and Heather also put together a couple of pages on how they got their Wulst and vached Steuchlein working.

Going back over the TH translations from [personal profile] jillwheezul: "Formwise the Bündlein followed the same contour of the Sturz, except that the circumference was considerably reduced to an outer bow on the back of the head, progressively becoming smaller each year until it slipped below the crown to follow the natural shape of the head. A tightly bound edge over the front of the forehead along with the decorated border (Borte) sitting on top of the hair line creates the festive Steuchlein look. Solely in the tightly bound chin-strap did the medieval “gebande” headgear live on, and this was distinctive from all other upper class headdress in this time period. Early in the second half of the 16th century the chin band began to be loosened around the neck, although it remained an essential element for the Bündlein."

OK - while I have a good idea of what I want to build, I am going to have to *finally* go back a reread all the 'Wulst' supported hat sections of the TH with the actual book in had so that I can review the images at the same time and try to get the best possible idea of the differences between a Bündlein & a Steuchlein.

Also, it is finally getting through my skull that a 'Wulst' is *any* supporting cap structure for these final hat shapes...rather than always being a roll. At least that is what I get via the re-read of the Sturz materials (since clearly, it isn't just a roll holding up all those high flying layers of church hat...

[personal profile] hsifeng...Hat Detective....*snort*

**"I want to be a German Ninja!" Seriously though, my 'mock chin strap' ala the various images of women following military trains saved my lungs a lot of dust at my last events.
hsifeng: (Creative)

The furthest I got on the recreation of this piece was completing the Wulst roll (and inspiring a slew of folks to do the same!): [profile] amatilda and I are planning on hosting a workshop on recreating this many-layered marvel in detail sometime in August. I am hoping to come up with some sort of coif/hat that will act as the 'Wulsthaube' (pad, roll or ring-hat):

"All the previously described lady’s caps/coifs show a recognizably similar construction. Over a shape supporting under cap/coif, which was at first constructed with a high bow shaped arch, later becoming a light accentuation on the back of the head, was placed an over cap/coif, leaving the shape of the under cap/coif only visible through the impression of the curved shape of the over cap/coif. Depending on place and occasion the materials range from plain linen, to delicately transparent woven silk. The width and design of the appropriate decorated border depended on the social status of the wearer. Wulsthauben” (support cap) are recorded for each type of cap/coif (hauben)." ("Textiler Hausrat" by Jutta Zander-Seidel, translated by [personal profile] jillwheezul

In 'my' version of this hat, there is at least three layers: Wulst, Wulsthaube/coif, Schleier/shapped veil/embroidered over-coif.
For those images that have the lighter 'outer layer' I would add a light silk veil as a fourth layer and to protect my embroidery.

Was looking at [profile] attack_laurel 's website today: http://www.extremecostuming.com/reproductions/vacoift281975.html 

I think I am going to start testing out this 'sort' of basic shape with more 'room' in the back as my Wulsthaube layer. Holding the Wulst in a position to the extream rear of the head (which was common in the early period) is hard to do without 'cheating' via combs attached to the bottom of the roll. I am trying to get a final form that will hold the roll of the Wulst in place without any need for pinning the Wulst to my head/hair. 

Then I can work on creating a sort of formed Schleier (a modified rectangle, shapped with less fabric toward the front edges and embroidered for decoration). 

Then I can figure out how to pin it all together and add the silk veil. 

Any thoughts on shaping from those with more patterning experiance (everyone?) are appreciated! Thanks for listening.

hsifeng: (Creative)
Hey honey,

Let me know if this is still to complicated on the feathers....

hsifeng: (Creative)
 Any chance you could turn this image into a color 'boyscout' patch for Aiden?

I think he's earned it....

Here's an original scouting patch for reference:

If they are sized like the girlscout versions, I think they are about the size (maybe a little bigger than) of a silver dollar.

If you are interest in doing it, but the feathers need to be trimmed up; let me know and I will modify the image accordingly. *grin*
hsifeng: (Work)
So, hubby’s Waffenrock is complete. (*w00t!) I will work on posting more ‘detail’ shots soon. Thanks to all those who assisted in the idea process.   This was a fun project, but I am glad I am done with that trim! *chuckle*


May. 30th, 2008 03:12 pm
hsifeng: (Creative)
So, I am in the process of updating my Steuchlein. Last weekend I did some work with hair taping and played around with a new Wulst roll: I liked the results enough that I am proceeding with phase 2 this weekend – creating a Wulsthaube/Unterhaube to hold the roll in place and cover it.
As a reminder to myself as I move on with this process, the known components of a complete Steuchlein (mushroom hat) are shown in the following list. As no extant versions survive today to show us exactly how they looked, or how precisely they were assembled, I am guessing at the reconstruction – just like everyone else…*grin*:

Wulst (wool stuffed roll)
Wulsthaube/Unterhaube (linen cap over the roll - one layer or two is the question...)
Schleiertuch (linen veil..again, how many of these?)
Kinnbinde (chin band), in earlier periods, which makes for both a modesty cloth and a good protection against the dust of the trail.

In my opinion, the Unterhaube or an underlayer of Schleier is what we see covered in embroidery which shows through the lighter outermost Schleiertuch. Once I figure out how many layers I am going to have in my hat, I will work out some embroidery to make my hat pretty!
The manner hair taping that I did last weekend at Korneburg (it was under my hat most of the day, so not everyone would have seen it if you were there), is demonstrated here. Juliana got her hair taped by the ladies who wrote the 'Tudor Tailor' book and has recreated the experience on YouTube for the rest of us. 

I plan on building a cap like the one she puts on at the end as my Wulsthaube this weekend.

BTW - images of the original hair taping, as well as the other hat sessions from the 'Tudor Tailor' workshop held in 2007 in San Jose can be seen on [profile] sstormwatch‘s Flickr page.
Any thoughts, suggestions or input would be appreciated!
hsifeng: (Creative)

Last weekend I got a chance to hang out with friends at the Ventura Flea Market. There were several ‘oh mah gawd, why ain’t I rich?’ items of interest that I had to pass on. But I got to take home one very nice deal.

This lovely lady came home for $18 cash on the barrel. She is in need of repair (several long tears) but her length is remarkable as was the price tag. I am thinking of using her for either my own Schaube or for one for my hubby. 


hsifeng: (work...)
Yesterday was fun!

Spent all day at a Classified Personnel conference that my District holds every year. There were a *lot* of folks that I had never met there - some that I knew from phone and e-mail contact but many that I had never interacted with. Not a big shock, I have only been with the District for three months. It was really nice to run into an old college mate who is working in DSP&S (disables student services) as their head ASL coordinator and interpreter. I am used to people walking up and saying, "Don't I know you?" and 90% of the time they don't - I just have 'that kind of face' that seems to be like someone they've met before. So it was nice for a change to realize that I *did* know the person passing me a note in the middle of a conference course. Christina was studying sign language when I met her in college about 10 years ago so it is nice to see her working in that field. I remember her as being very nice and very animated - and she still is. *chuckle*

After the conference closed at 4:00 PM I went to Meg's shop and started working on getting my 'hand in' on lucet cording. I will be going back for at least the next few Thursdays. Meg keeps the store open until 8:00 PM on those nights and hosts anyone who wants to sit in for assistance on their project. She had a sock class going last night, but regularly walked around the grouped tables in the middle of the store to 'check in' on what people were working on and answer questions. It was nice to just sit and chat, even with folks I don't know at all! I I have updated my Making a wHole entry with the results of last nights work and will continue to add to it as the project progresses. I am trying to keep all the information grouped for future reference.

The events of yesterday have pointed out something that I have been noticing for awhile. I am not really good at walking into a group of folks I don't know anymore. I used to be fearless - or at least clueless - and run head long into new associations no matter what the situation was. Seriously, no crowd of strangers could slow me down! Now I don't seek interaction with people I don't know as readily and tend to end up feeling awkward more easily. I don't know if my perception of other people has changed or my perception of myself. *shrug* Or maybe I just don't seek other folks for company as much as I used to. I don't know if I like the new situation or not. Weird.
hsifeng: (Creative)
OK, I have a few techniques I am planning on testing out and I am going to document them here for others who might find them interesting. They have to do with the making, binding and filling (use) of point holes for the 16th century.

The scope of the project should be worked out before the first weekend in April (when I plan on my husband using his new Waffenrock with these items in place on it), for the School of the Renaissance Soldier.

Project #1: Point holes reinforced with metal rings ala the examples in Janet Arnold.

Project #2: Point lacings made of lucet cord

Project #3: Point lacing made of fingerlooped braids.

Project #4: Point lacings made of linen (via my new ¼” bias tape maker).

Updates as I make progress…. The Waffenrock should be ready for me to place points on by sometime next week...


Completed 'test holes' in sample fabric work up. Sample fabrics used match the liner and wool outer that are being used on my husbands new Waffenrock: That means two layers of medium weigh canvas and two layers of light weight wool had holes put thru them. A picture of all materials used is included below. These include the sample fabric, a tailors awl, a #4 (5/32") leather hole punch & a variety of copper and alloy 'jump washers' that I flattened using a pair of needle nosed pliers - washer sizes #8-#10.


Discovered that I like the punched holes more (*duh* the threads are no longer there to crowd back in to the voided space - making the sewing much easier), but that the tailors awl holes were almost identical in size so long as I worked them *with the awl in place* to hold the shape until the threads were in place to retain the shape of the opening. The awl also worked well for holding the metal backing ring in place while I did my sewing...hummmmm So, I guess I really don't know which technique - punch or awl - that I will use on my final product. *shrug* I don't have to make a decision 'right now'. *chuckle*

Photos of finished hole included, with close up of metal backing ring in place - this is taken from the 'back side/inside' of the fabric.  Please forgive my late-night-tried-after-sewing-all-day stitch technique. *grin*


Need new photo of finished hole - this first one was too dark...

I will be taking my test fabric to Meg's tomorrow so that I have sample sizes to test my completed points lacings against. With any luck, I will get both lucet and fingerloop braid completed to use as samples.




OK, so I *may* change my mind on this once I get a chance to try fingerloop braiding - but I am pretty sold on lucet cord for points at this time. They are easy to produce - you can make them in multicolor if you want to (still need to learn this technique) and stretchy which would be an advantage when dealing with the points at the back of a man's Hosen/Wams connection. I will upload some photos of my work in progress: Still plan on meeting with Meg again next week to go over finishing the cords and how to do some other styles of laces. I tried four types of fiber: Handspun wool, medium weight wool yarn, embroidery thread and embroidery floss (all six strands). What I learned is this:

Handspun - I need to work on my spinning! *chuckle* Seriously though, I used to think it was soooo cool that I could spin such a fine thread. The only handspun I had to work with was waaaay too thin and wouldn't have held up well. I may still geek out and spin a heavier thread on my walking wheel to lucet and hand dye for points. The thought did wander across my mind that fulling a handspun lucet cord might give a nice stretch while still retaining the overall strength of the fiber. Something to play with later...

Wool yarn - unless you use a *very* small yarn, you are going to get a final cord that is way too big for a point hole. This weight might be good for some other cording applications, but not my points.

Embroidery thread - I think this might work out if my point holes were larger. It comes in a wide variety of colors and is already 'spun' so it would be pretty strong.

Embroidery floss (all six strands used) - this will be what I am using on this project unless something else jumps out at me. The final cord was the right size for my holes; the material comes in a wide variety of colors and has a nice finish and stretch when corded.

Now to get hubby to make his aglets....*grin*





I have been playing with fingerlooping on-and-off for three weeks now. Other than the confusion that comes with interpreting each pattern authors 'take' on explaining the process of their braiding, it is easy and almost mindless once you get into a rhythm.  I have only tried two types of fiber with this cord making technique and here is what I have found:


Wool yarn - This makes some very nice trim work, and can be done (at least in the three loop braid that I know so far) i a manner that produces a flat tape. I love the overall appearance and can't wait to learn more patterns. By far the easiest material to work these projects in - forgiving on the fingers and easy to 'untangle' when necessary. WINNER!

Embroidery floss - This makes a nice, tight cord for lacing (it looks a lot like the four strand braids when done, but easier to do!), and can come out nicely when done in three loop pattern with more than one color. However, it is murder on the fingers! I will learn to endure it because I think I am going to make hubby a brown and red set of points for his Waff (to replace the red only lucet ones that he is using now) - I really like the final product!


All in all, I should learn to just listen to

[livejournal.com profile] jillwheezulwhen she tells me that I "should just use fingerloop braids for points". *chuckle* But then I wouldn't have had a much fun!
hsifeng: (Creative)

The source for my sling instructions is above. I used this site for all of my construction hints and was quite happy with the results. )

UPDATE: The sling was so well received that I have been commissioned for a few more by various other new mommies and preggers ladies at the shower. *chuckle* Hey, it's free fabric and a chance to try out some other sewing ideas like the pocket, a bottle holder, etc on the tail of the sling....
hsifeng: (Alternate 'Fashion')
Well, after more time ‘off’ from doing patterning that I care to think about, I currently in a deluge. First it was a bodice pattern for [profile] thumbcat at her house in SoCal: I have to admit, I was brushing off some cobwebs and I would still like to tweak that one a bit. But she is going to have someone I really trust working on her gear now and I have let [profile] shazear know that they should do another mock up with that pattern before going whole-hog on the dress materials.

Then there was a bodice pattern for [profile] dragonwoman : It seemed like old times! I ‘knew’ where the additional bits needed to be added and we seem to have gotten her fitting down in a one-of. In muslin no less!

Last night was making a pattern from some tight fitting jeans for [profile] bedpimp : I neglected to remind him to add seam allowance to the jeans cut away when snipping his rough draft – needless to say there was some…gapping…*chuckle* The second round with seam allowance added was much better! Now I just need to get him to come over and draft out his update of my hubby’s Wams pattern and the J. Arnold codpiece pattern I have from T and he will be all set to have at with his wool!

Sometime this week I plan on seeing [profile] tristanmorgan and another mutual friend for more bodice patterning. I will be doing Tristan’s and she will be learning with me on our other friends mock up. I know she's gonna pick this up in now time

I have a few errands to run this evening as well as a baby ring sling to complete sometime in the next day or so (before the weekend when it is going to the expectant mom at her baby shower!). I think the sling is going to be purty

Seems like all I do these days is sew…maybe I can talk hubby into reading my history books to me while I do so in order to not fall behind in my library! *chuckle

EDIT: *bahhhh!* WTF is the issue with MSWord vs. LJ posting software? 
hsifeng: (Alternate 'Fashion')

...with projects/events for the next couple of months.

Thursday night we are heading over to M&S's house (could have made that S&M's but thought better of it *evil grin*) for dinner and Thomas Jefferson listening.

Then this next weekend is going to be project central at my house with Operation Clean Up coming thru my neighborhood (read that as - big trash day for all the stuff you can't fit in the garbage can all year long). I have a ton of crap in the back yard that I want to finally get taken care of so that we can start our garden in the spring!

I am also making Baby Slings for S for her baby shower (which T and I are throwing for her). I am a bit bummed that more folks aren't going to be showing up for this event as it's her first baby and all...*harrumph* Then again, the final call for invites went out 'lateish' due to confusion about who all was OK to put on the list.  So, I will be off to shop for fun fleece fabrics for 2-3 slings http://www.mayawrap.com/n_sewsling.php. I think I may even put a pocket on the tail if I can figure that out easily. At least I got the rings ordered so all I will have to do is slip them on once I get the other sewing out of the way.

**(making invites for Inn)**

Then the following weekend, the BB Shower! Have to figure out some food stuff with T: She's taking care of the games. Thank goodness, I am no good a those since I don't normally do 'straight' baby showers. The last one we threw was for T and was a Halloween Theme with a pregnant cake full of eyeballs....*grin*

That next Monday the new job starts! January 7th is going to be an exciting day with all the stuff I get to learn. Apparently we have a couple of grants that will be due before the end of that month and I get to dive right in...

Then there's Winterfest in Ventura on January 19th and I would *love* to have something new for hubby to wear to it. More sewing!

Then it is the slide into the Inn with all the invites and whatnot needing to be made up and mailed next week so that folks have the necessary info at least a month in advance. I guess that bumps part of this further up the list for working on this weekend... ** (see above)

Sometime in there I want to get up to San Jose with the hubby to see his sister and her boyfriend who are newly moved back from Washington DC: I am blessed with the coolest "family-in-law" on the planet! 

I believe March is 'mostly' free - with the possible exception of an 'all periods' corset workshop sometime in the middle and a wedding that my hubby my be officiating at the end. 

Then April is the School of the Renaissance Soldier...


Maybe I should start planning things a year from now? *oops!* Already doing that with the possible North Fork Siege sometime in 2008/2009.

*rolls eyes*


hsifeng: (Default)

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