hsifeng: (handsewing)
OK, first off – thank you for your patience with my little ‘Origins of the Landsknecht’ blog-series/project. I swear, I *am* actually sewing and will blog about that soon as well. As a point of observation; I say I won’t quilt because I don’t see the point of cutting fabric into small pieces, sewing it back together and then cutting it up again to sew it in a pattern…and yet I make men’s early-period German costumes where that sort of thing happens all the time… WTF?!?

Aaaaanyway...

In the meantime I want to blog about the costume that I am going to be working on next for the 16th C. And I mean it; I am going to do this one. For sure. First of all – it’s later period. And considering the number of faires that my husband I do that are Elizabethan, this should be a no-brainer. Second, the image for my dress is actually From Köln. You know, that city that my character and her husband are from. And given the amount that I rant about regionalism, you’d think I’d have put my money where my mouth is by now. (*insert eye roll here*) Finally, I have been told by the Costume Mistress at the primary event that we attend that my husband can wear this if I make him the later period set to go with it!

Nürnberg Comedy Commemorative Moose Hunting Hat





And for the color versions, (thank you [livejournal.com profile] mmcnealy!) go here. Trust me, GO. It is worth it...

Anyone want to lend a hand with a translation of this bit?


Yes. That hat actually exists. 

EDIT 9/9/11: And now I realize that LJ is a bastard and is eating the images of the clothing that I am planning to accompany this hat.
 
/insert copious cursing here as LJ continues to baffle and annoy me in my efforts to add those images back in to this post
 
Without further ado:

 
I plan on making the red dress to the left of this image; although I must admit I have found a few other Kölnish examples that are tempting me as well (which I will blog about separately). 


hsifeng: (Bohemian Bathhouse Babes)

I love Katrin Kania's blog, "a stitch in time". Today she posted this lovely info on extant German undies from the 16th c.

Yeppers.

Undies.

*i <3 extant undies*



Aaaanyway. There is an English language article available as well here.

Just filing this all away for future reading and reference.

EDITED 7/6/11: And here is [livejournal.com profile] jillwheezul talking about the German language article on these.

EDITED 7/18/12: Due to a recent set of English language articles on this topic, interest has swung back round again on this find. [livejournal.com profile] mmcnealy just posted this tidbit on FB. http://www.uibk.ac.at/urgeschichte/projekte_forschung/textilien-lengberg/medieval-lingerie-from-lengberg-castle-east-tyrol.html
hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)

Well crap.

The hubby pointed out last night that I am not really following my own rules about dress “design” when it comes to this placard fronted dress project. I tend to pick a dress from a specific image and then reproduce it as closely as possible. At the very least, if I make a dress that is not from a specific source I work to ensure that the dress I ‘create’ is based on commonly represented design elements.

I am pretty far off those rails with this project so far.

Part of me wants to pout and stomp and make the damn thing anyway.

But the guiltier part of me knows I need to do more research.

*le sigh*

At any rate, I had fun last night playing design games with my original sketch. I love doing this sort of thing (“Mommy! Mommy! I want a paper doll!”), but realized I have never shared any of this aspect of my costume projects with folks on here before.

So, here are the two sketches I came up with last night.

 

 




To be honest, they both demonstrate the problem that my husband was pointing out: neither resembles the inspiration images closely enough (other than in basic outline of the bodice) to be identifiable as having originated from them.

*makes a twisty face*

Back to the library!


hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)

*sounds of brain spinning and gears grinding*

 

Having thought about the various inspiration images from my last post, I think it is pretty clear that I am interested in making one of the ‘placard front’/high necked dresses. The gown I end up making won’t be a recreation of any specific inspiration image, but I am pulling from all three current versions (as well as tidbits about historic tailoring I have picked up over the years) in an attempt to get the overall shaping and design to be recognizable.

 

So, I sat down with the Tudor Tailor book last night and came up with the following rough sketch. There is still a lot of tweaking to do here (the neckline isn’t yet what I want, and honestly may not get there until I am doing my canvas mock-up), but the rough design is here.

 


 

 

Until my mock-up is in progress (and I learn what an idiot I am) I am planning on drafting for a ‘three part’ collar; the back of the collar being an extension of the top of the bodice’s back, and the front being made of two separate/shaped bits that attach to the bodices frontside pieces at the neckline.

 

I am hoping to set the shoulder seam toward the back of the shoulder: extending from the bottom of the collar-join and terminating in the upper 1/3rd of the armseye at the back. I am under the impression that this sort of seam placement is historically acceptable, and I like the ‘non-standard patterning’ look it gives to the finished back of a garments. It also gives me an excuse to do some creative sleeve drafting later, in order to try to get the sleeve seam to line up with the shoulder seam toward the back of the arm.

 

The shoulders will also be slightly dropped off the shoulder point, as this seems to be a common feature of all three inspiration images.

 

The neck will be ‘open’ (not designed to close at center-front), with the two bodice-frontside pieces having attached forebodies that will be concealed behind the overlapping placard. The forebodies will be lightly boned (probably with zip strips) and should allow me a means of creating the necessary support/shaping that I am looking for.

 

The placard will extend from side-seam to side-seam (or close to) across the front of the dress. The bodice will have side seams, and not back-side seams. This is to prevent a plethora of seaming/placard attachment points making the whole top look cobbled together. The top of the placard will curve slightly upward rather than in a straight line, as this shaping appears to be part of all three inspiration images. Depending on the strain that the mock-up placard demonstrates, this piece may also require some light boning in addition to canvas backing.

 

The forebodies/placard combination should close in a manner similar to this one (from the Tudor Tailor):

 


 

Using [livejournal.com profile] attack_laurel‘s cartridge pleating method, I will attach my skirt to a narrow waistband, before attaching that band to the bodice. I anticipate the opening in the skirt aligning with the “open” side of the placard. I am secretly thinking I may very well use this side-opening skirt as an excuse to make myself a ‘pocket’…. 

 

…wait, did German women have ‘pockets’ (the kind that hand around one’s waist on a cord) in the 16th C?

 

Things to consider still:

 

1)      Regionalism of this garment; in order to better determine sleeve shape and trim details. Then again, I may just do some ‘standard frau’ sleeves and trim and takes the placards inspiration from these same original images.

a.       Donkey cuffs on the sleeves?

b.      Lots of slashing? A little?

c.       Multiple sets of guards on the skirt?

d.      Large solid bits of trim on the bodice top, or groupings of narrower trims?

2)      How to fix the ‘open’ side of the placard to the bodice while the dress is being worn. Pins? Hooks-n-eyes? Bueller?

3)      Stiffness of the collar; to stand or to flop, that is the question…  Probably to stand. Pad stitching, here I come!

4)      I am sure there are more, you tell me!

 

 

Comments, suggestions, non-flamey criticism welcome!

hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)

OK folks, now for that other project I mentioned in my last post about Schaube. The dress.

It is time for new garb; my old garb is lovely but no longer fits, and I am sort of itching to try out some sewing ideas with a new Rock. The first question, as always, is what dress to make. I love my ‘T-front’ camp dress…but technically I have one of those, and making another of the same dress isn’t really inspiring me at the moment.

So what to do?

Well, the idea of making a ‘pretty, pretty princess’ dress has been cooking in the back of my brain for some time now; but not one of the more common “Saxon Princess” designs with the lacing over the plastron/stomacher* (as [livejournal.com profile] femkederoas can attest, there are many other “SP” variations that are lovely and not so typically recreated). While I clearly have thoughts on those styles that I would like to explore (clicky, clicky…) I am still a bit loathe making one for me at this point.

But, I am in love with the high collars.

girlish sigh and much fluttering of hands

So…I am on the hunt for high collared styles that are not plastron/stomacher* based.  )

Regardless of the dress I choose, I think I am going to finally try out [livejournal.com profile] attack_laurel’s cartridge pleating method. Even though I will be working in wool, and not silk, I am excited to see what I get for results.



*coughthe historical German term is Brusttuck/Brustfleckcough
**coughthe historical German term is Gollarcough

hsifeng: (handsewing)

In running throught the WGA this morning looking for graphics of aprons in the early 16th C (come on, you know you want to help me! *wink*) I ran across the following two images. I think many of you have seen these before, but they sparked a thought in me: )I am notorious for being a fitting monster; muslin and patterning fabric quake at the sight of me. I think I ran through four mock-up/fittings to get the results I wanted from the BBB outfits.

Given these images and the normal ‘rank’ of my characterization, maybe I need to relax a bit. *chuckle*


hsifeng: (Landsknecht)
Jonas Samuelsson of http://www.landsknecht.org/ posted a request for infomration on the manner in which this cloak was made:

Detail from Cranach, "Dining with Holofernes, 1531" 


Someone was a dear and pointed out that Martin had posted information on his version of this item here (including his pattern).  I think you will agree that he did a great job!

    
Above images courtesy of Martin's site.


EDIT 4/15/10: And here is [livejournal.com profile] landsknecht_po's version of the pattern!
hsifeng: (Sudlerin)
Since this theme keeps coming up in various places, I thought I should set up a blog post with all my favorite bits. This way I will have them 'on hand' when necessary.

Here are some Textiler Hausrat references that [livejournal.com profile] jillwheezulposted on the GermanRenCostume Yahoo group awhile back (inventory listings from that book):

The Texiler Hausrat references:

1507 Frau Michael Behaim has a record of payment of a gulden : "fur ein liderein hirshchen Paar Hosen, meinem Friedrih gein Lyon" recorded in Johannes Kamann "Aus Nurnberger Haushaltungs und Rechnungbuchern des 15. und 16. Jahrhunderts (for a leather deerskin pair of hose, for my Friedrich to go to Lyon in).

1530 Jorg Schober, a Plattner, leaves a record of "1 hirsches par hosen und ain ainliches weyss parchets wames 1." (1 deerskin pair of hose and a single layered white barchent doublet)

1531 Thoman Beck leaves a record for "3 alte paar lidere Hosen und 3 lidere Wamas 1.4.6" (3 old pairs of leather hose and 3 leather doublets).

1603, Linhard Goetz, Baker, leaves in his inventory "1 alte lidern Gesess (upper stocks)" valued at 4 pfund 6 pfennig. (1 old leather upper stocks)

In 1555 the will of Georg Bayer, Grosskaufmann, leaves a "geschnitten Lideres Paar Hosen" worth about 2 gulden. (pair of slashed leather hosen)

1560, the inventory of Christoph Kress (upper class - has left an extant feathered velvet barret) listed "1 alts liders Par Hosen mit Satin unterzogen" (1 old leather pair of hosen with satin laid under them).

Per [livejournal.com profile] jillwheezul: "These are from pages 182-189. It is also mentioned that the mentions of leather hosen are less frequent than cloth ones, but as you can see, not unknown from the record."

The 'Leather vs Woolen' pants song:

Dale Shinn posted this song of the Leather vs Woolen pants year ago (11/23/01) on the Renaissance Military Society (RMS) list. He had this translated from German by a friend of his named Roland and originally received the text from a scholar who was living in Italy at the time and studying items from around Pavia. Apparently there were two versions of this song (see the end of this note), the first was discovered in the scabbard of a Katzbauger wrapped around the blade and the second was written in the lining of a pair of woolen hosen, possibly in blood. The songs are identical except for the swapping of the terms 'leather' and 'wool'. Dale noted that the reference to Maximilian in a song dated 1525 (after the year of his death in 1519), "most probably just indicates it is an old song brought up to date for the coming offensive in Italy. You know like so many Span Am, Civil War and WW1(break the news to Mother) old tunes?"

*English Translation*

The Forlone Hope of Pavia

Through a hail of bullets, with leather trousers tight, in the year 1525, I
went into battle, in honor of Maximilians name.

I like my leather trousers, my wife likes them too, it you were a
Landsknecht, you'd be wearing them too.

Before going into the field, my choice of garments was easy, as everyone
knows: leather trousers are better than wool.

I like my leather trousers, my wife likes them too, it you were a
Landskneckt,you'd be wearing them too.

In the heat of battle, the foe retreats ,in fear of my matchlock,
katzenbalger, but the best protection comes from my leather trousers.

I like my leather trousers, my wife likes them too, if you were a
Landsknecht, you'd be wearing them too.

My leather jacket protects me well too, as everyone knows, leather in better
than wool, with such garments, we won the Battle of Pavia, So let us all sing together!

I like my leather trousers, my wife likes them too, it you were a
Landsknecht, you'd be wearing them too.

*'Leather' German Version*

Der Verlorene Haufen von Pavia

Durch Kugelhagen dicht, mit Lederhosen stram,in Jahre 1521,zog ich in die
Schlacht, zum Ruhmer von Maximilian

Ich mag meine Lederhosen,mein Weib mag sie auch,waerst Du ein
Landskneckt,traegest Du sie auch

Bevor ich ins Felde zog,die Kleiderwahl fiel mir nicht schwer,da jeder
weis,Leder ist besser als Loden.

Ich mag meine Lederhosen,mein Weib mag sie auch,waerst Du ein
Landskneckt,traegest Du sie auch

Im Schlachtengetuemmel, weichen all Feinde, in Furcht vor mein
Luntenschloss, Katzenbalger, aber der groesste Schutz waren meine Lederhosen.

Ich mag meine Lederhosen,mein Weib mag sie auch,waerst Du ein
Landskneckt,traegest Du sie auch

Auch mein Lederwams schuetzt mich gut,den jeder weis,Leder ist besser als
Loden, mit solch Bekleidung stark, gewannen wir die Schlacht von Pavia, darum singen wir alle mit.

Ich mag meine Lederhosen,mein Weib mag sie auch,waerst Du ein
Landskneckt,traegest Du sie auch

*'Woolen' German Version*

Der Verlorene Haufen von Pavia

Durch Kugelhagen dicht, mit Lodenhosen stram,in Jahre 1521,zog ich in die
Schlacht, zum Ruhmer von Maximilian

Ich mag meine Lodenhosen,mein Weib mag sie auch,waerst Du ein
Landskneckt,traegest Du sie auch

Bevor ich ins Felde zog,die Kleiderwahl fiel mir nicht schwer,da jeder
weis,Loden sind besser als Leder.

Ich mag meine Lodenhosen,mein Weib mag sie auch,waerst Du ein
Landskneckt,traegest Du sie auch

In Schlactengetuemmel, weichen all Feinde, in Furcht vor mein Luntenschloss,
Katzenbalger, aber der groesste Schutz waren meine Lodenhosen.

Ich mag meine Lodenhosen, mein Weib mag sie auch,waerst Du ein
Landskneckt,traegest Du sie auch

Auch mein Lodenwams schuetzt mich gut, den jeder weis, Loden ist besser
als Leder, mit solch Bekleidung stark, gewannen wir die Schlacht von Pavia,
darum singen wir alle mit.

Ich mag meine Lodenhosen, mein Weib mag sie auch,waerst Du ein
Landskneckt,traegest Du sie auch

The Tudor Sumptuary Laws
Author(s): Wilfrid Hooper

Source: The English Historical Review, Vol. 30, No. 119 (Jul., 1915), pp. 433-449
Published by: Oxford University Press
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/551532

Just ran across this on JSTOR. Later period, English, but still fun and evidence that leather was used in pants at times. From a royal sumptuary proclaimation [Book of Proclamations (Brit. Mus., G. 6463), fo. 47 seq.] dated dated the 6th of May 1562:

"It is ordayned . .. that no Taylour, Hosier, or other person whatsoever he shall be, after the day of the publication hereof, shall put any more cloth in any one payre of hosen for the outsyde, then one yarde & a halfe, or at the moste, one yarde & three quarters of a yarde of karsey or of any other cloth, *lether* [emph. added], or any other kinde of stuffe above that quantitie. And in the same hosen to be put only one kynde of lynyng, besides linnen cloth next to the legge, yf any shalbe so disposed, the sayde lynyng not to lye loose, nor to be bolstered, but to lye juste unto their legges, as in ancient tyme was accustomed; Sarcenet, Moccado, or any other lyke thing used to be worne, and to be plucked out for the furniture of the hosen, not to be taken in the name of the syde lynyng. Neyther any man under the degree of a Baron, to weare within his hosen any velvet, Sattin or any other stuffe above the estimation of Sarcenet, or Taffata."
hsifeng: (www.crackafuckingbook.com)
And by that, I mean, "I am going to ask a question and pray that better minds than mine have the answers out there on the interwebz".


I think this is a sailor. I think this is a continental sailor. Can anyone tell me which part of the contient? I can't make out the inscription.
 

Piccies )
hsifeng: (www.crackafuckingbook.com)

The following two images are both from various “Kostüme der Männer und Frauen” books located on the BSB (original links here and here). They both appear to be images of women from Köln from around 1560-1570. As my character is from Köln (silver miners daughter ya’ll!) and I was considering making a ‘later period’ set of clothes for the Elizabethan events that I attend, I went looking for correct regional images.

 

Nice to see that they had a lot of variety of style in Köln….(*insert sarcasm here*)

Cut because Ray cares... ;) )
hsifeng: (www.crackafuckingbook.com)
After some tea and a walk with the dogs the other day, I came to a realization (I am sure that [livejournal.com profile] kass_rants comments had something to do with it as well):

Sewing the bits of the dress together one step at a time (Brusttuck to shirt, stomacher to Brusttuck bottom, skirt to stomacher bottom) isn't any easier on the thin fabric of the shirts that we see covering the breast and upper backs we are looking at.

Ermmm....

OK.

So, back to the drawing board.

She's so crazy! )
hsifeng: (Creative)
This got really long...so I am inserting a cut for the sanity of those who do not wish to participate in my rambling thougth process....*grin*

For you few...you lucky few...you band of insane clothing reenactors... )
hsifeng: (Creative)

I will be working on patterns at home tonight – so no knitting class for me! Just an FYI since I know that

[profile] dragonwoman and  [profile] sstormwatch has said they might want to attend.  I do plan on going to bug Meg next week about fingerloop braiding…
hsifeng: (Default)
Lots going on over the next two days 'off': Farmers Market - Doggie Park - Fabric and Leather shop trips - then project, project, project! At some point in there, I am sneaking cookies to [livejournal.com profile] gryphonlsb in celebration of him being such a good friend (deal with it buddy, you're getting the cookies!). I also hope to get thru some of our NetFlix and while working on handsewing items. We have at least one movie that has been languishing on top of our TV for far too long...

Two weekends of 'free time', then three weekends of friends visiting (*w00t!*) and out of town activities (DRINK UP, IT'S EASTER!), then our first event of the season (School of the Renaissance Soldier). So much to do between now and then!

In the meantime, need to settle down and start tonights sewing while [livejournal.com profile] dragonwoman cuts out her bodice...

Speaking of sewing projects: [livejournal.com profile] bedpimp! I am calling you out! When are you coming over to get your pattering done?!?
hsifeng: (Creative)

Why is it *always* the last minute with this holiday? *grin*

Even when I plan in advance I end up having to make modifications based on inspiration that strike around five minutes before I have to head out the door. At least this year I have a few hours to make the final adjustments.

Halloween Night
Zombie Hunter Grrrl Costume:

1) Big Stompy Boots? CHECK
2) Black BDU Capris? CHECK
3) Black Fingerless Gloves & Arm Warmers? CHECK
4) Black T? CHECK 
5) Cropped Army Jacket? CHECK
6) Gun/Shotgun? CHECK *they're fakies...relax!*

Now I just need to make the necessary mods/additions to the jacket, see if I can find a little 'Fidel Castro' cap at Target in the right color of green, see if the gaiters from my WWII garb work over the boots and get all this on and my happy ass over to T's place in time to decorate the club for tonight! *whew*

Saturday Night, the Leaky Cauldron in Oakland
Death Eater Costume:

1) Robes? CHECK
2) Corset? CHECK
3) Shoes? CHECK
4) Mask? CHECK
4) Wand? CHECK

Need to finish painting the wand (hubby working on this today I hope), put the ties back on the mask, whip up a cowl from the left over fabric and then sew all of hubby's 'Dumbledore's Army' patches to his alpenflage gear. 

OK - maybe this isn't as overwhelming as I thought it was...*chuckle*

Happy Halloween everyone!

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