hsifeng: (Landsknecht)
2014-01-03 10:28 am
Entry tags:

Finishing Touches

All cords and tassels are done... now I just need to form the aglets over the ends of the point ties and take photos!

Hopefully this weekend...

;)
hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)
2013-12-04 12:08 pm

Cloak Tassels and Cords: Wool Gathering

Link sharing for those who would like to know where I get my ideas for the tassels and cords I am working on for the Cloak Project:

Tassels:

There are dozens of sites out there on how to do these. My current favorite is from Racaire on her website here. When it comes to methods for finishing tassels (ie. making them purty) there are a number of options including Turks Head knots, embroidery, and beading.

Some lovely inspirations from later in the period...
Original Tassels - late 16th, early 17th C

Cords:

My preferred method for cord making is fingerlooping. There are other versions for making cord available out there (such as lucet cording), but I prefer the variations in design and durability of cut cords much more with the fingerlooped method. Also, I have questions about the historical accuracy of lucet cording in this period...

 I am planning on doing a pattern called 'lace bend rounde', and will vary between 6 and 8 bowes (the number of loops being worked, which varies the diameter of the final product). The plan is for the cords to be red and white, with some tipped in black tassels (to help match up on the larger tassels that will be affixed to the tails of the hood). The cording will also be used to close the neck of the cloak, although I will be using ties rather than the supposed loop-and-hook closure seen in this extant piece:

Stephan Prauns coat (1544-1591) - co Lady Petronilla via Flicker
Stephan Prauns coat (1544-1591) - co Lady Petronilla via Flicker. GMN.

Materials:

As is my wont, I will be using DMC embroidery floss for these items. It's cheap, easy to get, and has served me well. If I decide that the larger hood tassels need bigger threading, I will use the wool yarn I have at hand. Any 'shaped heads' for the tassels will either be formed over a wooden base (beads and buttons) or over a stuffed cloth form. 
hsifeng: (handsewing)
2013-12-03 08:57 am
Entry tags:

Mission Trim: COMPLETED

Hooray! :D

All the trim has been added to the garment, including trim on the inside and the outside of the cloak's hood (since you see both the inside when the hood is 'open' and the outside when the hood is 'closed'). How much trim, you ask? Well, there is plenty of twill tape left on my 100 yard spool, but I am going to guess 30-35 yards. I know I went through almost two whole spools of thread at 250 yards a spool.

My fingers...they are Swiss cheese... And they would have been ten times worse if [livejournal.com profile] sstormwatch hadn't let me in on the secret of using a running stitch rather than a hem stitch to attach all that trim. Bless you darling!

There is still that *slightly* crazy voice in my head that wants to use some very narrow soutache to make some fancy patterns on this bad-boy. But I think I may save that for the next one (already in the planning phases in my head...).

Next up - tassels and cords and more handbound grommets - Oh My!

Cloak Front
Completed cloak body - front view

Cloak Back
Cloak Body - back view

Hood, Down - Back View: A view of the 'interior' cloak trim
Cloak with Hood, Down - Back

Hood, "Up" - Back View: A view of the 'exterior' cloak trim - different pattern
Cloak with Hood,

Cloak & Hood Tails - Front View
Cloak, Hood

Throw a couple of pins in those shoulders and you apparently get a pretty badass little 'Schaube Collar' look out of this garment. ;) This is going to look even cooler when the tassels are attached to the end of those tails, and the collar and tassels have their fingerlooped trim and ties attached.

We are going to close the cloak with one tie at the throat, set in the same manner as the grommets on the following extant piece:


Stephan Praun's Pilgrim's Cloak, 1571
hsifeng: (handsewing)
2013-11-25 10:02 am
Entry tags:

Bells & Whistles

The cloak body and hood are all stitched and ready for banding. Woo hoo! As I discovered when making up the full circle of this design, the back does tend to drape into lovely folds under the hoods body all on it's own. These are not as small and precise as the folds in the inspiration image, but the only way I can imagine getting those with regularity would be to tape the cloaks body to train the pleats (as I did with hubby's Waffenrock). However, in taping the garment that way I feel that the cloaks practical use becomes more limited (you can't flare the whole garment out to cover yourself with while sleeping on the march, for example).

So we've decided to not tape at this time. We may revisit that decision later, and I feel comfortable doing so since I am convinced there is more than enough fabric in the full circle to pull this look off without any sort of insertion panels.

Original Image
Original Inspiration

Cloak/Hood - Pre-Banding
Cloak/Hood - Pre-Banding

The red ribbon is only there as a placeholder; the final tie(s) will be fingerlooped, as will the attachment points at he shoulders. I will note that the top of the hood is probably wider than it needs to be, making the gaping between the attachment points more pronounced than it 'should be'. As you can see when the garment is sitting on my husband, and then looking at the inspiration image, the double thickness of the hood also exaggerates this difference....

Shoulders 'en situ'...

However, with the hood up it is clear that the design works perfectly for use, and in fact tucking the 'tails' back under the first gap between the points that hold the hood to the shoulders will secure the overall shape of the hood nicely!

Hood Up

Some set up shots for cloak trim designs. I think this will be lovely, and time consuming...

Collar, Back
Collar Back

Collar Front
Collar Front

Cloak Front, Bottom Corners
Bottom Corners
Ignore the bits where the trim crosses off the edge, we are going with overall Trim Design #3, so this is just a layout with uncut trim. ;)

Hood, Center Back
Hood Center Back - Yes, that bit at the top will be properly mitered, not just twisted into position. ;)

Hood, Tails - WITH TASSELS
Hood Tails
These are the tassels from the Roadkill Showgirl, only used here as a size/style consideration.

And just so I don't ever forget how far the trim is from the edge of the garment, and from itself (for the second row):
Don't Forget The Measure!

S couple of shots from me sewing in the car on our trip this weekend. It's actually a very comfortable set up once everything is wedged in place, and I even managed to get my trim pinning done (on the hood, not the cloak which would have been a BEAST to manage in a small space)

The Set Up
Sewing Set Up

Pattern Layout - Hood Trim (going for a basket weave on the cross overs, so order is a bit critical)
Trim Pattern Layout - Hood

In Progress
In Progress

Lastly, this is what I've gotten done so far. Not going to lie, I was totally tempted to call in sick and just keep stitching with Edwardian Farm on the Youtube and a cup of coffee at my elbow...

Trim To Date
All the edges 'run off the ends' for now, until the alternating trim bits get applied and then all the ends will get finished. Only trim #5 still left to place on this side, then the other side to be done. :)
hsifeng: (Creative Sewing)
2013-11-20 09:22 am
Entry tags:

Collar Set

The collar is now all set in and looking lovely! The twill pattern has been matched at the neckline and I am quite happy with the scrummy* results! I did the whole thing by hand (the better to control the curve of the attachment and to ensure that the fashion fabric was taken up evenly throughout the seam). My fingers, they are in need of some lotion!

Collar being Set In

Work on the last bit of hem stitching will be worked up the back seam over the next day or so. This is slow going since getting to the hem involves burrowing under the Whole Weight Of The Cloak (good lord, there is a lot of wool in this thing!) in order to get a nice, even stitch on both sides of the joined seam.

Once that bit is done, I am off and running on the yards of trim that are to come next! I have a few thoughts on how this might be done:

Trim Treatments

So far #1 is my favorite, with the layers overlapping with a bit of a weave (laid in an over-then-under alternating fashion as the strips are added).

What do you think?


*I blame the boys on BBC's Edwardian Farm for getting this word lodged in my vocabulary after talking about scrummy apple cider NON STOP for the past two episodes. And now I want a cider.
hsifeng: (Creative Sewing)
2013-11-19 08:30 am
Entry tags:

Inch by Inch

Progress!

The cloak has been lined, and the lining has been prick stitched all the way around the hem so that the fashion fabric 'rolls' to the inside of the garment by a 1/2 inch all the way around. I love the way that hand done top stitching looks... W00t!

Since the fashion fabric wool has more 'stretch' to its weave than the lining fabric (which could probably stop a bullet) does, I ended up with a bit of extra exterior fabric at the center front on both sides. This means I have a lovely little 'facing' at the center front, which I actually adore. Thank goodness for happy accidents.

Next step, set the collar in (hopefully tonight) and then YARDS AND YARDS OF TRIM OMG. *chuckle*

Not going to lie, I am loving all the handsewing - it is an addiction of mine.

Also loving a chance to catch up on all the BBC 'farm' shows (through Victorian, in the midst of Edwardian, and catching Tudor Monastery as it comes available). I want to grow up to be Ruth someday... and not just because she is always making fancy underthings for darling Peter... ;)

Proof!:
Cloak - Lining set in and ready for the collar to be attached.

Pudding!:
Cloak - with the center front open to show the lining

Things I would change if I did this again:

1) Better weight of fashion fabric. I love this wool, but the looseness of the weave has lead to stabilization nightmares. ie. This is the SECOND lining that this cloak as been put through, and there is a reason I chose a THICK liner the second time around. The first liner was a bit of 'woolish' scrap that I had no other use for and it fought both me and the fashion fabric every step of the way. A more stable fashion fabric would have avoided this issue (in fact, a heavier fashion fabric and I may have avoided lining altogether...).

2) Having reviewed the JA PoF patterns - the body of the cloak would have been cut as an ellipse rather than as a circle. Thankfully the bit over the shoulders is not significantly shorter than the front and back of the body. :) 
hsifeng: (www.crackafuckingbook.com)
2013-11-10 10:09 am
Entry tags:

Gathering In More Cloak Data; or "The Internet Doth Prove Itself To Randomly Provide Information..."

[livejournal.com profile] ladykalessa pointed out a thread on the FB Elizabethan Costuming list (EC Bees) that is currently discussing cloak fasteners for gentlemen's clothing. The discussion is varied and well thought out and being attended to by some of the best researchers I know in that period:

If you aren't on the EC Bees list, I cannot recommend it enough. These sorts of tidbits surface on there so often that one can Not Keep Up with the data stream most times...

Some specifically interesting bits for me included the following potential options for keeping capes in place; interior straps (ala fur stoles), hooks (which were generally not seen as a better option than ties, since both have the potential for destroying the fabric of the doublet layer) and PINS (which was my first instinct, and I was happy to see that Ninya Mikhaia also thought likely). I also tend to think that the *cut* of the garment is critical, and suspect that greater-than-half-circle capes stay in place more easily as they fit over the shoulders better and distribute a greater volume of fabric/weight to the front of the wearer.

Additional info regarding cloaks in JA's PoF:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151854825249221&set=p.10151854825249221&type=1&theater

Images of cloaks in use during dance:
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/negri/images/
hsifeng: (Blackpowder Love)
2013-11-04 03:14 pm
Entry tags:

Faking It - Sort Of

So, a little progress post for the Landsknecht cloak project...

The pattern, she is finished! The final adjustments included making the hood slightly less wide (nape-of-neck to forehead measure), and shortening the 'tails' of the hood a bit. I had to do a tiny amount of piecing for the wool liner, but in the end all of that was limited to the CB edge of the garment and should be nearly invisible.

Next step was ordering my black twill tape (for trim) which I found for about $20 for 100 yards online. I am *pretty* sure that should be enough to cover the necessary ground - it is certainly going to be keeping me occupied with hand sewing for the foreseeable future. *chuckle* The plan is to create a trim pattern similar to this:

DRERAlbrecht-TwoMusicians1504WGA
Albrecht Durer, Two Mucisians

So while I await the arrival of my trimming material, I got to work on my collar for the garment. I had planned on pad stitching two layers of felt to light canvas base, to use as the inner 'guts' of the short standing collar. Then I realized that none-of-these-stitches-are-going-to-show-and-this-is-a-perfect-excuse-to-use-some-of-the-stitch-cams-that-came-with-my-awesome-vintage-Elna-Carina!

Because I got a 'new' sewing machine a couple weeks back....*

Don't remind my ol' Kenmore that I am cheating on her. :(

Seriously though, I am in love with my Swiss beauty.

Aaaaany. After I had cut my stiffener pieces (*the light canvas layer has no seam allowance along the top edge and the felt layers have no seam allowance at all) I stitched both felt layers to their canvas counterparts, leaving the canvas seam allowances unobstructed by the felt layers. Then I sewed the canvas together into the collar form, and basted the entire thing to my lining layer of the collar around the outside edge - using a blind hem stitch along the top edge so that the stiffener layer is *just* caught to the inner woolen layer at that point - avoiding unseemly top stitching in the finished lining of the collar.

Here is the result:

The 'New' Elna and the overall collar liner pinned to the collar wool
The Carina, (aka "Roswitha") in situ

Close up of the non-overlapped seams and the fake pads stitching
Close up of the fake pad stitching - but the effect is the same as on the collar I did by hand last time...

I am hoping to have more images of the cloak coming together throughout the course of the week. The *goal* is to have the item done (or at least wearable) by next weekend for an event we are attending with friends. :D

*[livejournal.com profile] ladykalessia is a goddess...a temptress goddess with an penchant for luring her minions into the outer darkness (inner light) of vintage machine addiction. I am currently lusting after her green Husqvarna Viking...
hsifeng: (Landsknecht)
2013-09-20 04:59 pm
Entry tags:

Back To Miniatures… (Cloak Pattern Drafting)

So the lovely [livejournal.com profile] sstormwatch came by to work on some fittings last night and did me the excellent service of ensuring I didn’t lose my mind in Mock-Up Hell on my cloak project. I had started out with the basic de Alcega cloak pattern that I have posted in this project before. Just in case you (somehow) missed it:

de Alcega Cloak

Based on this I had come up with a lay out that looked like this for my mini-cloak:

Cutting Layout

The problem? Well, let’s just say that the de Alcega ‘cloak’ actually seems to be scaled on the size of a ‘cape’. And a short cape at that. Given that my inspiration image is clearly knee length, this meant that my layout was going to have to change.

I had planned on just whacking out some basic shapes in muslin and then ‘messing with them’ until they worked. Not only would this have been massively inefficient (in both my time and in materials) but the chances were good I would have made some pretty annoying mistakes right from the jump that would have sent me into a downward spiral of compensatory drinking and sewing machine cursing.

Let's just say it's happened before...

So how did she save me, you ask? She asked if I had graph paper. And of course, like any self-respecting geek raised on D&D, I did.

So, using my basic measurements and the mini-cloak mock-up as a guide, we developed the following.

Neck Placement - Charted
Note: I would have totally centered the neck hole on the body of this cloak and been miserable when it hung longer in the front than the back. Saved. Me. I tell you…

I used an online calculator to figure the diameter of the circle for my neck opening, and then added this number to my overall cloak length X2 in order to get the diameter of the final circle shape. This was 98” overall.

Yeah, no way the de Alcega based layout was going to work. Mostly.*

The neck is off-set for the center point of the circle so that 2/3rds of the space is to the ‘front’ of the cloak (4” of the 6” diameter neck circle), and “2 is the ‘back’ of the cloak. This is because our necks sit forward on our body by about these same proportions (2/3rds to 1/3rd).

So once I had the basic ‘circle’ figured out, I drew a representative example of the width of my fabric, which was folded widthwise, and folded the tiny pattern of the cloak body to a quarter circle for an example cut chart. This let me see what my ‘waste’ fabric would be and what I could fit into that space for other cloak bits.

Then I drafted up the hood pattern, based on the following measurements:

Middle of shoulder blades, over the top of head, to forehead = 24”
Middle shoulder blade to middle, plus some “wiggle and draping”/2 = 14”
Base of ‘trapezoid’ of main hood shape in mini-mock up is approx. twice the size of the shoulder to shoulder measure, making this = 28”

Pythagoras helped with the length of the angled side…  = 27”

Based on the mini-mock up, the ‘tail’ of the hood sections is basically the same length as the angled side of the trapezoid shape of the main hood body = 27” (or 54” overall).

Basic Hood Pattern - cropped

Please note, in the final shape the line without a measurement in this diagram will NOT be straight, it will be tapered into the long side of the trapezoid shape long before it reaches the mid-line of the hood (as it does in both the original art and the mini-mock up). When I am working in muslin, I go for the ‘more is better until you cut if off’ method. This allows me the maximum of material play with in determining the final/best shape for the ‘tail’ pieces on the hood.

So, with the grid hood in hand, I played with some lay out options in the ‘waste’ sections of my cut diagram. Sadly, none of them were perfect, but in the end I did find a means to using a majority of the waste fabric efficiently. If I was willing to piece the be-Jesus out of the hood (still an option) I could probably get the whole thing in; but I am not interested in a whole mess of seams in an area that I’d like to keep as water tight as possible, call me crazy. ;)

Hood Cutting in Theory 1
The circle and hood laid out on my 'test grid' version of the mock up fabric. Please note, the fabric is folded widthwise, not lenghtwise. Each square in this = 4".

Then it was time to cut fabric, but we appeared to be experiencing a greyhound infestation.

Nigel Helping
A more adorable pest I have yet to meet. With the possible exception of my cats. Who I think Nigel is taking lessons from.

Piecing in practice
Hood Cutting in Theory 2

Piecing in action
Hood Cutting in Action

Next steps, putting it all together and making up a collar. Then messing about with taping for drape.  Once I have test fired the patterns in real life I will use the graph method to devise my final cut chart based on my actual fabric widths (think of this as a trial run on the concept).

The important thing I have to keep in mind is that my final version needs to allow for TWO WHOLE SETS of the hood – since it will be both lined and covered in the same wool fabric (if it is lined at all, which is still up for debate depending on how much fabric I have in my stash…).



*Still theorizing on how a narrower fabric and additional piecing may end up with me going back to a version that is closer to the de Alcega in the end. We shall see.
hsifeng: (*Arrrrrrrr!* Sewing Pyrate!)
2013-09-13 03:53 pm
Entry tags:

Cloak Deco

Not that I am to this point yet... but I should have the pattern done this weekend and be well on my way to thinking-trimmy-thoughts. So I am going to gather a few items here for reference.


Stephan Praun's Pilgrim's Cloak, 1571: Piped and slashed trim at collar and 'frogs' for button closures...


Albrect Durer sketch: Knotted detail on hanging ends...


Albrecht Durer, 'Two Musicians' (1504): Narrow double band of trim - common treatment...
hsifeng: (Landsknecht)
2013-09-03 12:55 pm
Entry tags:

Tiny Progress

So I played dress up with my tiny 'tailors model' yesterday. I started with a pattern layout based on this:

de Alcega Cloak
(Note to Self: Check out [livejournal.com profile] mmcnealy information on de Alcega tailors marks here.)

In which I modified the hood thusly:

Cutting Layout

I also pulled together a standing collar, which I will probably end up basing on the version I used in the fitted brown woolen doublet I made a couple of years ago. A bit of a question regarding that later...

Keeping in mind we want to end up with something like this:

Original Inspiration

I think I may have landed in the ballpark:

Sealed Split In Hood and Hood Attachment

First things first. YES, I need to add length to the back of the garment. The cloak looks to hit the back of the knees and the hood falls to just below the small of the back. But a few things *did* work in ways I really like.

Split in Hood Base

By removing a small triangle of material in the CB bottom of the hood, and then 'lacing' that space closed (in the same manner as the inspiration image) the material of the hood begins to form into a more natural 'bag' shape that makes for a better fit over the head. Many of the cloaks in this period are split much further down the middle and then seamed for shaping (either with a real seam, or with buttons or ties that can be undone to allow the 'hood' to lay flat along the back as this one does). Between this small split, and the 'gathering' of the extra hood length along the shoulders by placing the ties with loose bagging between - as done with pins in the image above) the overall hood becomes...well.. a hood rather than a flat bit of cape.

The forming of hood is hard to see in this scaled down version, but is more apparent in the first of the mock up images above. I plan on playing with the depth of the split and the amount of loose bagging between tie points on the full scale mock up to be done later this week.

Hood Up with Wrapped Tails - Front Hood Up With Wrapped Tails - Back

The 'tails' on the hood look like they are going to be *excellent* at forming the garment around the face and neck. I had guessed this was their purpose when seeing them on the inspiration image, but I love the result in the scale model. I have feeling that hubby may be annoyed by them on occasion (they may not *stay* wrapped without some pinning), but I have a sneaking suspicion they may be more able to hold their position than I think once the full sized version is done.

Now, on to the problems:

1) The collar I intend to use has an 'incorporated' back piece in one with the body of the garment. This doesn't seem to be done with cloak patterning, given the examples in my prior posts, but then *no* collars appear to be present in those extant patterns while we do see them on the actual garments in a number of cases. Thoughts on the best sort of collar method to use to get the result in the inspiration image? I am imagining whatever version I end up using, there may need to be a bit of pad stitching to get the form to hold to the back of the neck in the way it does in the inspiration piece.

2) The fullness of the back of the cloak just doesn't seem to match up with the amount of fabric even a full circle is giving me. If I want the sort of yardage that the controlled pleating under the hood form seems to indicate, I think I may need to add a gore to the CB of the piece to make it happen. There is *clearly* enough yardage in the cut lay out to allow for this

Cutting Layout - added gores

By opening the CB line of the cloak (on the fold currently) and adding one or both of these I would be placing a straight-of-grain against a bias cut which would add some stabilization to the natural stretch in the circular cut. Furthermore, if I reverse the position of the circular cloak piece to the 'open' side of the folded fabric then the gore would actually be on the fold - preventing additional seam lines in the final garment. The hood could also be swapped, but since the inspiration image does not seem to indicate a seam down the middle of the hood I would hesitate to do so.

Part of the issue could be the scale I am working in, or that my 'tapes' were thrown together, or that I started with the first line of 'picks' too far apart (please note, this is the inside of the garment you are looking at below - and yes I am watching Longmire in the background...*grin*):

Controlled Pleating

But honestly, it just *feels* like there is no way to get a circle alone to make pleats like this:

Original InspirationHood Up and Pleats From Back


3) The hubby wants a hood that will hold up to some weather and/or make him look like a ninja (my words, not his - but he *does* love the Nuremberg mourning cloak with its lirepipe hood and black, inky soul). This may mean that I need to add a bit of felt fabric to the lower edge of the hood form (which will end up around the face), and down into the 'wraps", at least far enough to ensure a similar level of face coverage as what we see in the detail here.

This may also allow the hood more 'forward weight' to help hold the wrap in place more securely, and may be one of the reasons for the trim in that location in the inspiration image.

Hood Up - Front Detail


So, on to the full scale mock up! The fabric is going to be muslin or something else that is lightweight, so I need to consider that vs. the final lined wool weight with trimmed hem to help hold it out. Still, it will give me more data!
hsifeng: (Landsknecht)
2013-09-02 04:22 pm
Entry tags:

Hubby Picked a Winner

Here is the one we are working on...

Hubbys Choice

I am working on the following assumptions:

1) Cloak is cut as a full circle that has most of the fullness 'trained' to the back via pleating that is probably controlled with tapes;
2) Small standing collar, trimmed out in same fabric as the band going all the way around the base of the garment (probably up the front split as well);
3) Hood is a trapezoidal shape with elongated ends, tied to shoulders at the 'short side' and probably cut on the fold down the middle from fabric left after the circle is cut. Possible shaping for wear via the split seen at the CB bottom edge that is then 'sized' with lacing. This would help to gather the fullness of the hoods body, as seen in the drapes at the back of the wearer in the image.

Going to work on some tiny mock ups based in part on the de Alcega layout below.

de Alcega cloak
hsifeng: (www.crackafuckingbook.com)
2013-09-01 07:59 pm
Entry tags:

Cloak Notes/Thoughts

Looking back over my prior entries under the 'cloak' tag as I get ready to take this project on again. My thoughts:

1) Loading the images previously provided by [livejournal.com profile] mmcnealy here as the original links she provided seem to have died on my prior post (they were in the comments to my first entry on this subject, which went like this:

"For the first cloak, I looked up Kohler and he has it as a full circle cloak with long tails. Its an interesting idea, and I think it would probably give the look you're going for.

Kohlerp202-20315thcmenscloakfullcir

Another cloak from Kohler a 3/4 circle cloak with arm slits, just for a comparison.

Kohlerp18715thcMenscloakwitharmslit
Juan de Alcega hasa similar cloak for men but without the arm slits.

JuandeAlcegap30ABohemiancloakformen

The cloaks with hoods are *so* Spanish! Here's a picture from Juan de Alcega Cloak and Jerkin of cloth. Its a full circle with a hood.

JuandeAlcegap25Spanishcloakwithhood

The full circle would give you the fullness needed to be able to put the arms out, and have enough fabric to keep the body warm."

2) Martin's prior website with details on his patterning and cloak project are gone - but not forgotten thanks to the Way Back Machine! *w00t!* I would really consider this more of a Schaube in this version, largely due to the sleeves. I think without these sleeves I think the result of creating a cloak with  an extended and attached collar that doubles as a hood would give you a cloak with a similar look to the Durer image from the post here. As noted before, the PDF file of Martin's pattern is very like [livejournal.com profile] landsknecth_po's here.

3) Additional images of hood patterning are something I should look into... but given the various versions in the art I feel that variety is key here. There were a *lot* of methods including the hood-incorporated-into-the-shawl-collar version that both Martin and Po used.

4) Did some more scrounging for original images in the Single Leaf Woodcut books. Variations galore! There are a number of images of peasants in short capes of various types (which were far less common than coats), some that included splits up the sides of the garment to the shoulders to allow freedom of arm movement (but with enough fullness in the garment that I would guess they are still semi-circular in cut at the least) and various hoods both integrated into the garment and separate (like in the older, medieval style hunting hoods).
  *  Book I, page 160 (G.179-180) includes two small images of gentlemen in cloak garments. One with an interesting triangular shaped hood that is tied to the back shoulders of the main cloak garment (there are a number of hoods like this in prior examples I have seen and I *love* the idea of the hood being pointed on).
  *  Book I, page 226 (G.247) has a standing collar with no visible hood and a large fullness of fabric at the neckline that is pleated to fit. Makes me very curious about the original cut on this piece.
  *  Book 1, page 233 (250-9 & 250-10) Two versions of the same image, both with a simple cloak with tied corners. This appears similar to the type seen on the soldier in the first image here.
  *  Book 1, page 304 (G.326 - Uber and Unter of Leaves in the deck) Two variations on knee length cloaks. Both with slashed trim, one with what could be a tied on hood, possibly with a knot in it's hanging end. The version with the potential hood also has a short standing collar - but this could be the collar of an undergarment showing.
  *  Book 1, page 335 (G.365) Two men wearing garments that may be cloaks with shawl style collars. Sleeves are not immediately in evidence, but possible splits for arm holes are in the body of the 'cloak' garments. Either that or the body of the cloak is thrown back over the shoulder in some way that allows the arm to be free of the material.
  *  Book 1, page 372 (G.402-404) Several gentlemen at a garden party in Venice wearing cloaks. Only one seated showing a hood attached (there may be others, but their backs are not visible).
  *  Book 2, page 640 (G676-683) This is the series of 'cuts depicting the Siege of Wolfenbuttel. A number of men, primarily riders, wear short capes of circular cut.
  *  Book 3, page 778 (G.816) Central figure with back to viewer is wearing a cloak with a tied hood, pointed in shape. G.817 on the page adjacent has a similar figure on the left side with back to viewer, but the detail of that garment are sketchy at best.
  *  Book 3, page 1015 (G.1064) A cloak worn by a prince with only one shoulder covered. Wrapped 'toga style' across body.
  *  Book 3, page 1020 (G.1069) Another simple, open necked cloak worn by a torchdance partner. Another like it on pages 1022 & 1024.
  *  Book 3, page 1027 (G.1076) Cloak of a more complex cut with an apparent hood (tied in place) and knotted detail. Shawl collar may fall over hood.
  *  Book 3, page 1054 (G.1105) Specifically a landsknecht in a cloak with knotted details. This is the image that I have seen reproduced by other artists who interpreted the cloak as a more pancho like garment. It clearly is not in the original image.
  *  Book 3, page 1166 (G.1220) Bohemian captain in a cloak, body of a style similar to the tailors pattern book image above. However, the falling 'collar' (hood?) in the back is interesting. I am pretty sure it is *not* a hood, but its shape and placement are interesting as I can't see a functional purpose for them.
  *  Book 4, page 1185 (G.1235) Front row, cloak wit knotted detail and rolled/slashed 'falling collar'. The carter in this image is wearing a short, split cape of a type seen on a number of men in baggage train images. G.1236 on the next page has a soldier in a shorter cape (waist length).
  *  Book 4, page 1271 (G.1326) Cloak with apparent affixed tassel as detail. Very basic design with simple trim. Image almost identical to character of 'the marriage candidate' on the page prior.

Now to go over choices with the hubby and settle on a design...
hsifeng: (Landsknecht)
2010-03-22 02:06 pm
Entry tags:

The Cloak(s): Revisited

Jonas Samuelsson of http://www.landsknecht.org/ posted a request for infomration on the manner in which this cloak was made:

Detail from Cranach, "Dining with Holofernes, 1531" 


Someone was a dear and pointed out that Martin had posted information on his version of this item here (including his pattern).  I think you will agree that he did a great job!

    
Above images courtesy of Martin's site.


EDIT 4/15/10: And here is [livejournal.com profile] landsknecht_po's version of the pattern!
hsifeng: (Landsknecht)
2010-01-20 04:52 pm
Entry tags:

Landsknecht Cloak


For those out there with a better grasp of basic pattern shapes in the 16th C - any thoughts on what the basic 'cloak' shape is in these images?




It appears to be somthing other than a rectangle to me (given the 'longer/knotted' corners). Perhaps a trapazoid, or two long triangles attached to a square body base?




Up next, hoods!