hsifeng: (Blackpowder Love)
[personal profile] hsifeng
So, a little progress post for the Landsknecht cloak project...

The pattern, she is finished! The final adjustments included making the hood slightly less wide (nape-of-neck to forehead measure), and shortening the 'tails' of the hood a bit. I had to do a tiny amount of piecing for the wool liner, but in the end all of that was limited to the CB edge of the garment and should be nearly invisible.

Next step was ordering my black twill tape (for trim) which I found for about $20 for 100 yards online. I am *pretty* sure that should be enough to cover the necessary ground - it is certainly going to be keeping me occupied with hand sewing for the foreseeable future. *chuckle* The plan is to create a trim pattern similar to this:

DRERAlbrecht-TwoMusicians1504WGA
Albrecht Durer, Two Mucisians

So while I await the arrival of my trimming material, I got to work on my collar for the garment. I had planned on pad stitching two layers of felt to light canvas base, to use as the inner 'guts' of the short standing collar. Then I realized that none-of-these-stitches-are-going-to-show-and-this-is-a-perfect-excuse-to-use-some-of-the-stitch-cams-that-came-with-my-awesome-vintage-Elna-Carina!

Because I got a 'new' sewing machine a couple weeks back....*

Don't remind my ol' Kenmore that I am cheating on her. :(

Seriously though, I am in love with my Swiss beauty.

Aaaaany. After I had cut my stiffener pieces (*the light canvas layer has no seam allowance along the top edge and the felt layers have no seam allowance at all) I stitched both felt layers to their canvas counterparts, leaving the canvas seam allowances unobstructed by the felt layers. Then I sewed the canvas together into the collar form, and basted the entire thing to my lining layer of the collar around the outside edge - using a blind hem stitch along the top edge so that the stiffener layer is *just* caught to the inner woolen layer at that point - avoiding unseemly top stitching in the finished lining of the collar.

Here is the result:

The 'New' Elna and the overall collar liner pinned to the collar wool
The Carina, (aka "Roswitha") in situ

Close up of the non-overlapped seams and the fake pads stitching
Close up of the fake pad stitching - but the effect is the same as on the collar I did by hand last time...

I am hoping to have more images of the cloak coming together throughout the course of the week. The *goal* is to have the item done (or at least wearable) by next weekend for an event we are attending with friends. :D

*[livejournal.com profile] ladykalessia is a goddess...a temptress goddess with an penchant for luring her minions into the outer darkness (inner light) of vintage machine addiction. I am currently lusting after her green Husqvarna Viking...

(no subject)

Date: 2013-11-05 07:04 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ladykalessia.livejournal.com
Glad you're enjoying her. :) She was fun to work on, too!

(no subject)

Date: 2013-11-06 10:25 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] hsifeng.livejournal.com
I just love that she began her 'rebirth' in a room full of Coven members at CoCo last year. It says something about her intrinsic value that she managed to keep you distracted from cocktails for most of the evening. ;)

(no subject)

Date: 2013-11-05 10:32 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sstormwatch.livejournal.com
Oooh, I want to see your pretty restored Elna next sewing session.

And glad to see the cape is coming along so nicely. Machine pad stitching can be a great time saver. I still prefer doublet collars by hand, just for the curve factor which I've yet to get right by machine.

(no subject)

Date: 2013-11-06 10:24 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] hsifeng.livejournal.com
She is a beauty! And she stitches like a dream... :)

The curve of the collar was a challenge, and we'll see how it holds up over time - but considering the number of layers I have in there I think it will be up to the work. ;)

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